Sapna RateriaThank to Indigo starting a direct flight from India and visas not required for Indians travelling to Georgia if holding a valid UK, USA and Schengen visa, this holiday was fast planned and faster executed. Not to do with the destination, traveling on Indigo on a longish flight is either punishing oneself or desperation to explore more of the world.
Technically Asia but located between Europe and Asia, a tiny country, former Soviet republic. Home to Caucasus Mountain villages and Black Sea beaches. Birth place of Wine, here you sip history while you explore it. Archeologists have found 8000 years old fragments of Kvevri or clay jar which was used to make wine in Tbilisi. Home to some of the oldest and most authentically made wines. A lot of it is exported but the best ones are kept for local consumption. Perfect way to discover these are to visit the local vineyards and restaurants.
Beautiful and bestowed with natures blessings it’s a compact package. Getting around by public transportation between cities may be tough but the private tours are affordable and luxurious. An escorted one in a branded car would cost less that what a do it yourself holiday would cost in Europe.
History, nature’s bounty, updated infrastructure, hiking, trekking would be the top reasons to explore Georgia. Super luxury stays probably not.
Caveat : However much research I do before travelling, and whatever I share through my experiences would be such a tiny fraction of what can be done. I personally find blogs so helpful and read a lot of them to plan my travel. I want to do my bit in the quest of making someone’s memories better.
Trivia :
Half a day to explore the historical neighborhood of Tbilisi, Metekhi, Sioni and Anchiskhati would be good. Start by going to Narikala fortress by cable car, admire the Mother of Georgia statue which is visible from afar as well. From Narikala walk down to Sulfur bath district constructed in the XVII- XVIII centuries under influence of Islamic architectural style. The district is also called as “Abanotubani” where several, hot sulfur springs immerged. On way visit the waterfall near botanical garden. Stop at Meidan Bazar for souvenirs before continuing to Chardin Street, famous pedestrian area with international cafes, small shops and the Gabriadze Puppet Theater with the clock tower. It’s pretty cobbled pedestrian streets with no vehicles allowed and lined with cafes & pubs, continue to the main avenue of Shota Rustaveli (constructed in the XIX century) with the theatres, Museums, art galleries and Parliament building. Out of the many historical churches, a must visit would be The Holy Trinity Cathedral.
Modern structure to see : President Palace, the Justice house, Bridge of peace.
Mtatsminda Amusement Park : Perched on a mountain with great views of the city. Good to head here at sunset even if travelling without children. There is no entry fee to the park only for the rides. Great place if travelling with children. Keep expectations in check it’s not Disneyworld.
Hot Sulfur baths : Legend says the hot sulfur water is what made King Vakhtang to build a city around it. From what was basic baths then it has evolved to private ones now with colorful domes, decorative tiles and private rooms. Most are located in Abanotubani, very central. These are bathhouses primarily and not Spas, not sure how good their spa treatment would be. Public ones are cheap but would mean disrobing in front of strangers. They are gender separated. The private ones you can rent a bath depending on the number of people. Family & friends can share the room. Kisi ( scrub ) is charged additional and can be paid directly to the Mekisi. (scrubber) Tipping is optional.
Towels, scrubs etc all have to be bought at nominal charges. Idea is to hop in the hot bath and then take a cold shower alternately. Finish off with a scrub by a Mekisi. Keep hydrated and don’t stay too long in the Sulphur water as it can draining. The best bath in my opinion is Chreli-Abano.
Mtskheta & nearby : An hour and half from Tbilisi is the former capital of Georgia. Mtskheta is UNESCO heritage site located at the crossing of two rivers and the ancient trade routes. Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta is the splendid architectural monument and the first Christian church in Georgia. It is the burial site of Georgian monarchs of Bagrationi dynasty. Jesus Christ’s robe is believed to be buried inside as well. Outside there are many shops selling trinkets & souvenirs, cheaper than elsewhere. Also sold here are home made wines in plastic bottles, which can be tasted before buying. The pomegranate ones are really good.
On the way back visit Jvari Monastery, a sixth century Orthodox monastery. On a hill over lookin the Mtkvari and the Aragvi rivers. Not only the Monastery but the views are incredible also.
Chronicle of Georgia : Massive structures of bronze, copper and stone, commissioned in 1985 and looks complete now, however there is no entrance fee and most people don’t know about it. Its good for some Instagrammable pictures. The main monument has 16 pillars each one sculptured. Behind the pillars is a small chapel with great views. Can be covered along with Mtskheta.
Bioli wellness resort : 15 kms from Tbilisi is this wellness resort, located 1200 meters above sea level. With zero pollution and green hills as far as your eyes can see its a wonderful place to relax. It is envisioned as a place to stay for improving overall health or maybe a specific health issue. Breakfast is only served from 10AM. Food options are not many but what they do serve is brilliant to taste and a visual delight. Reminded me of master chef dishes where every ingredient is blended together thoughtfully. No swimming pool and apart from beautiful walks and cycling around not that much to do. Loved staying here. The cottages are small with glass on all sides bringing in the nature inside, gives a sense of staying in a luxurious tree house. Armed with books or whatever brings about personal Zen space, stay here can be extended to a week, only for those who are comfortable with themselves and don’t want constant activity. The resort offers free health consultation for all guests, it’s a short one where the consultant doctor by the help of a machine tells the mineral, metal & stress levels in the body.
Tsalka Canyon : Earlier know as Dashbashi Canyon, Tsalka is a deep mountain gorge around 2 hours from Tbilisi. I loved this place the best in Georgia. An architect’s dream probably, a 240 meter long transparent bridge with a diamond shaped transparent bar suspended in the middle. It’s supposed to be the world’s largest hanging structure. Whoever thought of this one had great imagination and risk taking appetite to invest so much in the middle of nowhere. Can go berserk clicking pictures, all guaranteed Insta worthy. Highlight is the biking zip line, super scary to look at but so safe and so much fun. Was 100% sure I want to do this, then the driver scared me a bit…he was like errr, it is a bit extreme. Trust me it was not.
Minor thrills after the major one ? Try the cliff swing, which actually is quite tame after the adrenaline rush from the zipline cycling. Tickets being sold by people around is slightly cheaper than buying at their counter. Can buy a combo of both activities also. Trek lovers can walk down a 1800 meter long path from the Visitor Center to the canyon. The hike down to the waterfall is paved.
The hanging bar serves only coffee & drinks. There is a restaurant near the visitor’s center with views of the diamond bar for lunch & dinner. Could spot cottages around for staying as well. Not sure how good they are.
Kakheti / Sighnaghi Kakheti is the most visited wine region in Georgia, because of it’s proximity to Tbilisi many tourists visit it, hence it’s popularity.
Sighnaghi ( City of Love ) a town in Kakheti is around 2 hours from Tbilisi. Although it is one of Georgia’s smallest towns, It’s so pretty and quaint, can opt to stay here for a night, it’s at the heart of Georgia’s wine-growing region, has picturesque landscapes, pastel houses with wooden fretwork balconies, and narrow, cobblestone streets. It’s know as the city of love as many come here to say their wows or to reiterate them. It has a wedding house where one can marry anytime of the day. Could spot fun lovers riding quad bikes around the town.
There are various number of wineries in Kakheti as the region is very developed as a wine producing area, as per preference any one of the many wineries may be chosen to visit and tour. I visited Winery Khareba, they had some great wines as part of the tasting tour, temptation to pick up many was there. The realization that packing it with clothes may be a risky affair curbed the desire to some extent. Wine cellars are in tunnels that are very cold, blankets are given as part of the tour. They have a baking class also which is a waste of time and money. Would advise to skip that.
Bodbe Nunnery : A small chapel surrounded by beautiful gardens. Just 10 minutes from Sighnaghi. It is built on the burial place of Saint Nino, a 4th century female saint, who converted many Georgians to Christianity. Besides it’s historical significance it has been repaired and restored many times and is very beautiful.
Kazbegi : Around 3 and half hours from Tbilisi and barely 12 kms from Russian border it is the third-highest peak in Georgia, and the seventh-highest summit in the Caucasus Mountains. A must visit for mountain lovers and trekkers. The trek up to Gergeti Trinity church (2170 M) is not challenging and would be fun to do if staying there overnight. 4X4 vehicles can carry non trekkers right up, there are horses also available. Spotted an exciting long zipline as well, sadly had no time to try that. Visiting in summer would be best as there are not much foliage around for this region to be picturesque in Autumn, in winter trekking would not be possible. Kazbegi can be avoided if mountains don’t excite, its a long drive for a day trip. There is a hotel there called The Rooms. Seemed like a good one, was buzzing with tourists, read somewhere that without reservation it’s tough to get a table for lunch.
On the way to Kazbegi can make a pit stop at Ananuri and Zhinvali Reservoir. The dam was built in 1986. Water is a perfect blue color and surrounded by mountains. Faintly resembling the Fjords of Norway. Ananuri fortress is a sixteenth-century castle complex on the Aragvi River. The fortress stands beside the famous Georgian Military Highway, overlooking the large Zhinvali lake. The main church façade is beautifully carved with animal, floral and Celtic style patterns. There are a few shops selling souvenirs as well as snacks and food. Photo ops have been created which can be used for a small fee.
Some tips 1) Download bolt app for taxis, hailing a cab will cost 10 times more. 2) If you want to party ensure you are in Tbilisi on Friday & Saturday night, all good clubs are closed other days of the week. 3) Vegetarians will get only 2 local food to eat apart from fruits. Kachapuri : A flat bread filled with cheese or potato Lobia : Red beans served as a curry or stuffed in bread. Maybe advisable to carry some food.
