Cirrus Travels & Holidays

Japan

admin — Tue, 23 Jun 2026 05:18:37 +0000

My perception of Japan has always been of a country full of skyscrapers, less space, expensive, where language would be a barrier to communicate and travel. Last few years I saw so many people travelling to Japan, being a travel consultant the more I researched the more it started intriguing me. Not only places but seasons, every part of Japan has a season when it shines.

Cherry blossom is the most hyped time to visit but I would differ, autumn has the country’s flora & fauna dressed in the warm hues of red and orange, gold and brown competing for attention, it’s beautiful.

Space is scarce but communication is no problem, with google translate people understand what is asked and go out of their way to help. They will walk all the way to your platform, probably missing their own train in the process. Gentle smiles and constant bowing to show respect is their way of making all visitors welcome.

In school as part of extra classes I had taken up flower arrangement, my teacher was Japanese. Looking at the pretty gardens and even curbside arrangements perfectly done was reminded of her. A country which is a stickler for perfection, not only the environment but also the food served has to be perfectly arranged and plated so well it almost breaks your heart to eat it.

My feelings before and after the trip remains same, from FOMO ( fear of missing out ) to FOMO ( fear of missed out ) With so much to do it will take a lot of trips to erase that feeling. 10 days of hectic rushing around and so much still remained to be ticked off.

Packing tip : Very rarely would you find short dresses been worn, Japanese dress conservatively. Most places shoes have to be taken off, carry nice looking socks.

A country which has always been ahead of the times still has some places where the operations are physical and not digital. Most inconveniently the Japan rail pass and seat reservations. The JR pass can be bought by visitors to Japan, a tourist visa is mandatory, it’s super useful and covers most trains including the bullet trains. Has to be bought before travel in one’s home country and comes as a voucher. On arrival at airport the voucher is exchanged for the actual pass after the tourist visa is authenticated.

It’s advised to book seats despite having a pass. Though there are compartments which allow unreserved pass holders if the train is going full it may mean missing a train if no seats are available. Best is to do all research before travel and have all the trains with dates and times handy to be booked. Exchange pass and book all seats at the same counter before leaving the airport. This time investment will make the rest of the trip worry free. On arrival at Narita airport look for the JR East travel service, they do it. Their office hours are from 8:30 AM to 6:30 PM, beyond these hours on the same floor there is a ticket office which also does it. There are some kiosks also which book seats but the process is tedious, passport numbers etc have to be fed every time.

Many trains do not have luggage storing facility, some have limited luggage space which has to be pre bought. Best to travel with limited luggage, airports as well as hotels have luggage courier facility, for a fee the bags can be sent to the destination and travel can be hands free. I did not use this thought the booking process will take time, also did not want the anxiety of waiting for bags at destination.

Most public transportation frowns upon people talking on their phones and eating. There are signages everywhere discouraging the same. There are almost no dustbins in Japan, everyone carries their trash back home to dispose, better to have a bag handy for the same. it’s ok to slurp but not ok to sneeze , in fact slurping while having tea is encouraged.

Paying in Japan : Many places accept only cash, it’s considered rude to give money in hand, all places including taxis have a tray where money is to be placed. Most shops offer tax refund to visitors on the bill itself, passport has to to carried for them to feed in the passport number. They do not do it on copies or if shown on phone. Airport does not have tax refund.

Shoppers paradise : Japanese are very proud of all they manufacture, rightly so as they have know to be perfect in all that they do. The clothes, simple but so soft to touch and made so well. Electronics the world admits they make the best, even small stationary items cute and functional.

Shopping in Tokyo :

Ginza : The world’s biggest Uniqulo is there in Ginza. On weekends the main street in Ginza turns into a pedestrian street. People are seen lounging in the middle of the road with their own chairs, all top brands are found here.

Akihabara : For all who love to browse and buy electronics. Here there are shops selling animated ( anime) clothes and toys as well. The local guide said that’s because all gizmo lovers love anime as well.

Shinjuku, Shibuya & Harajuku : Shinjuku is another area where high end sophisticated shopping is good, for fast fashion Shibuya has a lot of good shopping malls. The malls in Shibuya I felt mostly cater to teenagers. In between these 2 areas is Harajuku, the shopping lanes here are car free, a lot of shops here sell verified branded second hand clothes and accessories.

First Avenue Tokyo Station : Inside Tokyo Station there is an area Tokyo Character Street, which has shops filled with popular Japanese comic characters, it also has a lineup of sweets from Japan’s leading confectionery makers.

Outlet malls : Mitsui and Gotemba are the most known ones. I went to Gotemba, it’s has a direct bus from Shinjuku station. Takes around 2 hours one way. Unless shopping is a big priority on a short holiday this may be a waste of time. The bigger brands do have some good deals, the medium ones don’t have variety and neither do they have good discounts. However if someone wants to make it a day of fun, the layout as well as views of this mall is the best I have seen in any country. Vistas of Mt. Fuji on a clear day and shops having a layout which is almost like terraced paddy fields, I loved it.

Don Quijote : These shops are found in many places and sell almost everything under the sun from clothes to medicines to high end bags. Some of them are open 24X7. They offer tax free shopping ( provided you have passport handy ) and are super crowded even at midnight. Brands are kept so casually that the first instinct is that they are fake, however they are supposed to be original, maybe preloved. The prices are also just a bit lower than other stores, not throw away prices for sure. Alcohol here is well priced. Daiso is one more shop found many places. It’s the equivalent of a dollar shop. Good to browse for cute gifts to take back home. Muji also found many places is is so Japanese, lovely fabric and solid colors.

Food recommendation : Vegetarians please carry some food, it’s very tough to find vegetarian food specially in smaller cities like Kyoto, Tokyo is better. Carry some soya sauce as local ones have fish. Armed with soya can ask for boiled/ sautéed vegetables and add own seasoning. Happy cow ( the app ) was not that happy in this. country, was unable to help in most places. Some sightseeing places had street vendors selling potato and sweet potato fries made in vegetable oil. Okonomiyaki ( Japanese pancake ) is a local dish that can be made vegetarian if the same can be explained.

Vegan Ramen UZU Tokyo : Outside team labs at Tokyo not only was the ramen outstanding, the ambience was equally fabulous.

Izakaya Masaka Tokyo : In a mall in Shibuya, Japanese vegan dishes, rare to find and superb to eat.

Stay recommendation : A must do is stay in a Ryokan. It’s a Japanese Inn. Has tatami-matted rooms, futons instead of beds. Low tables in rooms to sit cross legged and enjoy tea. Nemaki ( a Japanese robe ) is kept in the cupboards to wear around the Inn. Shoes are not allowed, there is a locker at the gate where shoes worn on the road are stored. To wear inside the Inn Uwabaki ( slippers ) are given. They have communal, gender separated baths in addition to en suite baths. Breakfast is not a buffet but beautifully laid out freshly made food. For vegetarians, its’s just a feast for the eyes and not the stomach.

Waiting for Ramen

Futons

Low seated tables

Lovely to see, nothing to eat

Hot individual pots of food.

There probably would be loads of must do activities in Japan but the 2 on top of the list would be bathing at an Onsen and attending a tea ceremony.

Onsen : Mention of Onsens in Japan is as early as 8th century. It’s said regular bathing in an Onsen can help in weight loss, skin rejuvenation as well as treat physical pain and aches, cure many diseases, Originally Onsens were found in nature, flowing streams with hot bubbling water from volcanoes rich in minerals .

With commercialization most of them now have facilities around it, showers, recreation areas, massages, meals etc. However to qualify as an Onsen the water must have required level of minerals and minimum temperature has to be 25 degrees Celsius. . Royokans are made around it offering stay facilities as well for people who want to stay long periods for treatment or rejuvination. Some very commercial Onsens offer baths in red wine and chocolate as well as mineral rich water. Some hotels and bathhouses have mineral water supplied to them from the original sources.

Most authentic Onsens in Japan do not permit anyone inside with a tattoo. The reason being that tattoos were associated with people of organized crime groups and since its communal bathing others would get intimidated seeing inked people. Now even some of the older Onsens do permit people with tattoos, some provide covering tapes to hide the tattoo. It took me a lot of research to find an authentic one in the mountains which would permit tattoos. Highly recommend Tenzan Onsen, it’s in the Hakone area surrounded by forests, they have sauna, massages, lounging areas, a lovely restaurant.

Earlier Onsens were not gender separated but now they are. Authentic Onsens do not permit even bathing suits to be worn. Japanese are comfortable to roam around as nature intended. Saw a family of 3 generations enjoying their day together at the Onsen.

Tea ceremony : The best place to experience this would be Kyoto. This is a very formal affair. Shoes have to be opened outside where the ceremony is performed. The host wears a traditional kimono & explains the process and the importance of the ceremony. Guests sit on tatami mats with legs folded at knees. Low chairs are offered to those who cannot kneel & sit. A sweet is served along with matcha tea. Matcha tea is supposed to have cancer fighting antioxidants. A whisk is given and guests are taught how to make their own matcha tea. Some places a kimono is offered to the guests to wear as well. The whole experience evokes a feeling of zen. Talking while the ceremony is going on is frowned upon. The ceremony takes around 45 minutes. After it’s over the host is happy to answer any questions and take pictures.

The most fun thing I did was to get an EKI stamp book made for myself, its a small book size of a passport, typically having 50 pages. I was not sure I would get it at the airport, did some research and got it custom made with my name. At airports, stations and most of the sightseeing places look for EKI stamps, a fun way to document the journey. Temples and shrines have Goshins which can be stamped, at some shrines they paint it in your book for a small fee. It’s also a way of giving employment to the priests. Some priests may refuse to paint in your book if they feel it’s not a Goshuin book. I could not find this book at the airport. At shrines they were selling it. Was fun to reach a station and the first thing to look for stamps even before trying to locate the correct platform. A treasure hunt across the country.

Kyoto : 2 hours by bullet train from Tokyo is the earlier capital to Japan. The name itself also means capital. This is one of the best places to experience a Ryokan stay. The one thing I missed doing here is have cute looking ice cream. I saw so many places on Insta with pretty ice creams in Kyoto but failed to locate any.

There are so many of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines in Kyoto and obviously not possible to visit all. Recommend visiting Kiyomizu Dera, located on a hill and very much in the city center of Kyoto. It’s a world heritage UNESCO site, some parts of it it can be explored without paying an entry fee. Cause I had limited time explored a fraction of what this site had to offer, keep aside a couple of hours and visit this at leisure, it offers spectacular views of the city as well as the valley. It’s famous for the viewing platform, water from the Otowa waterfall which is said to fulfill wishes, 3 storied vermillion pagoda. There are many shops on both sides of the lane on the hill leading up here. These shops mostly start shutting after the temple hours are over which is 6PM

An hour away by road or train from Kyoto is Nara deer park, the entry is free, biscuits can be purchase to feed the deer roaming around freely. Any food in the backpack ? They can smell it and will keep following, its fun to feed them, they are quite docile and friendly, hold up your hand and say all done, they will move away. The guide was saying some of them also bow like Japanese do. I think with the advent of so many visitors they have become multi lingual. 1240 acres of land for them to call their own, that also in a country like Japan where land is expensive. I think they are quite privileged.

A short walk away is Todai-ji Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall) I got my first hand painted Goshuin here, fascinating to see them paint carefully and precisely on the books which then become treasure troves forever. Interesting to observe Japanese are quite superstitious. Paper fortunes ( o-mikuji ) are sold at most Japanese temples and shrines. About half of the o-mikuji predict bad fortune. It is customary to leave the bad fortune behind by tying it at a designated spot at the temple or shrine. If you receive a good luck paper fortune, you are to keep it. Costs about 100 to 200 yen and is available in several languages. To receive o-mikuji, a cylindrical or square pillar box plus long thin sticks (Mikuji-bo) is used to shake and draw the paper fortunes. Vending machines that dispense o-mikuji are becoming popular now. It’s a fun thing to do, not to dwell on it too much.

An hour away from Nara is Togetsukyo Bridge and Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. Only a few minutes away from each other and in the midst of nature, combined this is a very common tourist spot and has a lot of shops selling food and souvenirs. The wooden bridge is across the Katsura river and has incredible views. There is no entry fee for the forest and Instagram has made this a must visit spot. On a less crowded day it would be nice to walk around and take a boat ride on the river. Must have Ice cream here at Rilakkuma café, it’s a themed café, loved the soft serve with the cute edible teddy on top.

Less than half an hour away from here is the Kinkakuji temple, a UNESCO recognized World Cultural Heritage site. Built at the edge of a large pond almost looks like its floating in the water. The top 2 floors are made in gold leaf and dazzles from afar. Can follow the path and stroll around enjoying the beautiful gardens around. This would not take more than half an hour.

Half an hour away is Fushimi Inari-taisha, keeping this as the last stop makes a lot of sense, its open 24 hours, has no entry fee and its just 10 minutes away from Kyoto. Dedicated to the God of rice, Inari, this shrine is famous for thousands of orange Tori gates behind the shrine which form a path snaking itself deep into the forest. The fox statues seen frequently are because foxes are supposed to be messengers of Inari. Depending on energy levels and time it would be great to go further down the path and deeper in the forest as then the crowds thin down and the beauty of the bright gated tunnel with trees all around can be enjoyed. I was lucky to be here at sunset and the views were unforgettable.

Osaka: A bullet train takes 25 minutes from Kyoto and is covered by JR pass. The train I took had Hello Kitty themed compartments as well as regular ones. Japan is big on themes, there are theme cafes, restaurants, trains. There is a train called Garaku which can be taken between Osaka and Kyoto, it’s got a ZEN garden and compartments themed on seasons. The frequency for this one is less.

To cover Osaka fast one must limit the places to be seen, which unfortunately I had to do. Take an Osaka pass, which can be bought from home country but has to be exchanged in Osaka for the actual one. Even though I had the address of the exchange counter it was super tough to locate it. Was inside a mall with no signages. Worth the time spent as then one can just enter all places without standing in line. All local transportation is covered in the pass. Umeda tower entry is also included but not for evening for peak hours.

Osaka Castle, don’t get limited to visiting just the castle, explore the lovely Nishinomaru Garden just before it, views from the garden of the castle are super. The entry fee to the garden is separate from the castle, however the Osaka pass covers both.

Shitenno-ji Temple is one of the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan. Will not take time to explore this one. Has an entry fee covered by the Osaka pass.

Had to give Tsūtenkaku tower a miss as the lines were crazy and no exceptions were made for the Osaka pass.

Umeda sky building consists of two towers that are connected at the top by the Floating Garden Observatory which is the highlight of the building. It has breathtaking views of Osaka and the floors were twinkling like stars. To pass between the two towers there is an escalator, this too offers stunning views. Entry is covered by Osaka pass, though at non peak hours.

If doing on the same day, a short ferry ride away from Miyajima is Hiroshima peace memorial. It’s hard to believe the scale of destruction that happened here. Was apprehensive about visiting here after all holidays are about happiness and positivity. Not sure what I was expecting but definitely not this beautiful peaceful place full of Zen. The guide while narrating and showing places where disaster had struck was talking more about how the people have shown resilience, not only people but even the city, it was predicted that it would be decades before vegetation would thrive here, defying that, all around was greenery and flowers. A statue of Sadako the girl who ultimately succumbed to the aftereffects to the radiation is one of the first things seen. She is remembered through the story of the 1,000 origami cranes that she folded before her death.

Just outside the museum there is an eternal flame, which will burn till all nuclear bombs are abolished. Though the city is now a thriving one with people working and business as usual the Atomic bomb dome has been left untouched as a reminder of the tragedy.

The museum had stark depictions and pictures of the holocaust, somber moments and a lesson to the world why this should never happen again. A paper crane made personally by Obama and displayed prominently stands witness to the peace prevalent between the 2 countries now.

Tokyo : Thanks to bullet trains taking flights are not necessary in Japan. In a little more than 2 hours one can be in Tokyo from Osaka. Unfortunately the last leg of my journey. Doesn’t matter, coming here again, God willing.

Highlight of Tokyo, team labs. Tough to explain what it is and would want to kind of leave the mystery intact. All that I can say is that it is a immersive and interactive digital art museum. Tickets do get sold out, better to buy in advance. Don’t wear skirts or short dresses. Preferably wear something that can be rolled up as well. Keep aside at least a couple of hours to enjoy this to the hilt. Don’t forget to have the world’s best Ramen just outside the museum.

Tokyo Imperial Palace : the emperor still stays here, the outer grounds are huge parks and the inner grounds can be accessed only by guided tours or on public holidays. Nijubashi Bridge here is a good backdrop for pictures to be clicked.

Senso ji temple : The oldest Buddhist temple in Asakusa, Tokyo. The temple has a five-story pagoda, the Asakusa Shrine, and an incense burner where visitors can participate in the ritual of purifying themselves with incense smoke. Just outside the temple is Nakamise Shopping Street, one of the oldest shopping streets in Japan, and has a wide variety of traditional Japanese souvenirs and local food, a lot of shops here have vegan street food. The temple closes at 5 PM and so do the shops.

Tokyo Tower : Open from 9 AM to 10 PM this was an average experience, can be skipped. They have a glass floor on the top deck, an aquarium, wax museum, roof top garden. Maybe Shibuya Sky or Sky tree would be better for a viewing experience.

Shibuya scramble : wondered what is so fascinating about people crossing the road ? what’s the hype about ? The deal is that all the lanes at the crossing open up at the same time. It’s a sea of people crossing all the lanes together. They are going about their regular day while tourists are going berserk taking pictures & videos. The best place to watch this is from a Starbucks located at the crossing in a building which has perfect viewing vantage point.

Have to share the story about Hachiko the faithful dog. It’s said that Hachiko would see his owner off every day to work at Shubuya station and would come back in the evening to pick him up. One day the owner died at work but Hachiko would still go every day to the station till the time he died. There is a statue of Hachiko at the Shibuya crossing. I needed a picture with him, in a world of false promises such stories are heartwarming.

In search of an authentic Onsen and because Owakudani the volcanic valley sounded so fascinating I tried to find the shortest route for a day trip from Tokyo to cover both & more, all research said Hakone by public transportation would take 2 hours.

Let me tell you the shortest route for it. From Tokyo station take a train to Odawara ( 30 minutes ) from Odawara take a shuttle train to Hakone ( only 15 minutes ) The first part is covered by JR pass, beyond that take a Hakone free pass which covers all modes of transportation as well as the pirate ship cruise. Again the pass can be bought in home country but has to be exchanged at Odawara.

From Hakone can walk ( 25 minutes ) or take a bus to Teinsen Onsen. Enjoy the Onsen, be sure to have the lovely coffee they serve. Take a bus to Hakone Shrine, after visiting the shrine go further down to get a picture of the Tori gate. Continue the journey, take a bus to reach Lake Ashi, enjoy the lovely Pirate ship cruise, Tori gate is visible from the ship as well in case if one has skipped visiting the shrine. On a good day would be wonderful to just stand on the open decks and enjoy the mountains around.

Don’t take a round trip of the cruise, get off at Togendai. This is from where one can get the ropeway it starts at Togendai station, the first stop of the ropeway is Ubako ( dont get off here ) then is the Owakundani Station & the great boiling valley. Owakudani was a volcanic crater valley with active Sulphur vents and hot springs. This crater was created during the last eruption of Mount Hakone some 3000 years ago. The view that awaits as soon as one gets off is well worth the effort and more. They have guided walks around here, that is free but one has to register for it, limited slots, which get over fast. Alas could not do this as was raining heavily the day I visited. This place is supposed to be cold all year around and jackets are required, the day I visited was super cold. The jacket I carried could not protect me at all. Here one can have the famous black egg which is supposed to add few years to life span. It’s regular eggs boiled in hot Onsen water. The sulfur in the water turns the egg shells black, inside is a normal hard-boiled egg, safe to consume. Not that I had it, I’m fine with having a shorter shelf life.

Take a cable car again to go to the open air museum. It’s open only till 5 PM. From there one can take a bus to Odawara, journey is around 50 minutes, frequency of busses is less. Or can take a taxi which will take 20 minutes. Odawara to Tokyo is by fast train, 30 minutes. Whew…got exhausted explaining this. Feel free to skip a few places, to enjoy fully stay overnight at Hakone, Teinsen has stay facilities, of course there are many places to chose from to stay overnight at Hakone. Check bus timetables, frequency is less between each point. On a clear day Mt Fuji can be spotted from Owakudani and also the cable car.

Mt. Fuji can be viewed from Hakone or from Kawaguchi, since I had already planned an extensive Hakone trip where Hakone would be the hero and did not want any other sightseeing to eclipse it, took a tour for Mt Fuji. from the Kawaguchi side. It is a lovely tour, takes up the full day but well worth it. Depending on season it starts with that season’s fruit picking and eating to hearts content. With very little breakfast in our tummies we devoured the current fruit offered…strawberries with cream dip. Rows of the fruit, biggest & sweetest ones ever had. Since this was a group tour had to hang around a bit, next stop was Shibazakura viewing, here again the tour changes depending on season. Shibazakura is in April & May. Shibazakura festival site is a bit difficult to visit using public transportation, can go to Kawaguchiko Station, and catch a bus to the festival, which takes around 30 minutes. The traffic here was really slow moving, eating into the time I could spend at the festival. Near Lake Motosuko it’s fields of beautiful pink, purple and white flowers with a backdrop of Mt. Fuji. Tough to put words to the mesmerizing sight. Loads of food trucks are around, those making a day outing of just this festival will have plenty of food choices. Alas we had very little time here. Had read about a stream where one can dip ones legs and enjoy the surroundings. Did not get to see it, forget about enjoying. it.

From here Mt. Fuji 5th station was an hour away. Highlight of anyone’s Japan trip. With unexpected rains was not sure if we would get a glimpse of Fuji-san but I did….took loads of pictures before Fuji-san could hide in the clouds. There is a Shinto shrine here, very peaceful, Mt. Fujiyama Komitake shrine. Though the highlight was kind of over and I was satiated went to the next sojourn, Lake Kawaguchi. Views of Mt Fuji from the lake are very different than from 5th Station, if possible one must do both. Kachi Kachi ropeway which starts from here was disappointing, though it offers views of the Lake and of Mt. Fuji I personally felt this can be skipped. From here back to Tokyo is just an hours drive away. Doing the circuit was a day superbly spent.

It’s quite a long read I know but while writing also I was getting FOMO, am sure have missed out on quite a lot of tips. Have to go again to write a part 2 as well. Ending with a couple of Japanese words I love. During the pandemic read the book Ikigai, it hooked me on to the Japanese way of thinking.

Wabi Sabi : Finding perfection in imperfection & being content & peaceful. ( My absolute favorite philosophy of life summed up in one word )

Ikigai : A reason for being.

I am not perfect, I accept myself with my flaws. Embrace & love what I have, while seeking improvement, I am not striving to be faultless.

Azerbaijan

admin — Mon, 22 Jun 2026 12:27:19 +0000

That’s the tagline given by the tourism board, given to encourage travelers to scratch beyond the surface and experience the culture, take part in various activities offered.

Very apt, after coming back to one’s own country travelers will wonder did I do justice or should we have stayed a bit more ? Soaked in the culture some more ? No end to greed I guess.

By the Caspian Sea, sharing borders with Russia, Turkey, Armenia, Georgia and Iran. For Indians it’s E visa & can be obtained in 3-5 working days. A safe destination that is easy to travel, hiring a car with chauffer is will not burn a hole in the pocket. If combining countries one can exit Azerbaijan by road to go to neighboring Georgia but cannot enter Azerbaijan from Georgia by road. This is valid for now & may change later.

Azerbaijan celebrates the Persian New Year with the Novruz festival in a big way . To check out dates & visit around that time would be a fabulous idea, weather is ideal as well, chances of getting snow in the mountain regions. It was a coincidence that I travelled on those dates & there were festivities all around, Nizami street was full of pop up stalls with games & food, total carnival vibes.

Easter eggs everywhere

In autumn (September and October), there are several festivals celebrated. In September Baku hosts the Grand Prix ( 18th -21st) probably better to not travel during these dates as everything is crowded & expensive.

I found the metro in Baku simple to navigate despite language issues. Each trip is standard .50 ANZ. Buses in Baku are also easy to use & connect well.

Metros also have underground art, travelling is not only simple but opportunities to appreciate art. Xalglar Doslugu and Elmler Akademiyasi Stations are embellished with mosaics and other Soviet-era decorations.

Many places still accept only cash. Recommended to change currency to get Manat. (ANZ) Most supermarkets & even small local shops willingly exchange USD, GBP or EURO. While buying even something as basic as a packet of wafers be careful as even supermarkets may charge way above the printed price.

Airports are naturally the first impression of how a country is going to unfold. Baku was cute, modern & compact, there were huge decorated Easter eggs and grass grown in various pots as symbol of growth, renewal & arrival of Spring as Nawruz was around the corner. As Iran is a bordering country there is an influence of Irani culture here

Broadly would recommend 3 places to explore in Azebaijan : Gebele or Gabala, Baku & Shahdag. Recommended to travel as a prebooked tour, it’s reasonable & saves mind space for enjoying the country. Food recommendations would be lacking on this blog as being vegetarian I survived on food carried from back home.

Airport

Easter eggs @ airport

Gabala : North of Azerbaijan, famous for ski slopes & other winter sports like snowboarding & snowmobiling. Best place to enjoy would be from Tufandag mountain resort, for all those who prefer to relax & not exert the resort has a lot of cafes, food stalls, music, bonfire going on throughout the day at the cable car station. One can take a cable car from the resort to the mountain top.

Gabala

Cable car @ Gabala

Early morning fog

From Baku to Gabala a must stop place is Alpaca farm. Cute, cuddly & docile they are so endearing. Also adding to the Alpaca experience is the patient and knowledgeable staff. They have a small cafe & shop. We got a cookie each as a souvenir. One can feed the females, (food to be given to them is part of entry ticket), get close & take pictures with the males. We were warned not to touch the females, they are kept in a separate enclosure. Tipping the guide in charge is expected.

Alpacas are native of South America, look like sheep but are part of the camel family. They can survive extreme climates because of their hair, they are sheared only once a year and the price of their wool is higher than traditional wool. Graceful & friendly, even those who are scared of animals will not hesitate to hug these cuties.

Enroute one can do a wine tour, stopped for a wine tour at Savalan Apsi winery, felt it was a waste of time & money. It was more like someone giving a lesson than a fun experience, the table setting for wine tasting was impressive though. Personally I was not very enamored by the local wine I had anywhere in Azerbaijan. Instead of a wine tour a fabulous very recommend lunch stop would be at Abqora, it’s a restaurant where Shirvan wines are located, near Alpaca farms and very picturesque.

A few more stops on way would be at Shamaki village, a drive around is good enough. Shamaki Jummah Mosque, the oldest mosque of the country built in 743AD, since then it has been destroyed & rebuilt many times, latest being in 2013. It’s beautiful & peaceful. Nohur lake, there is a games zone, go carting, horse riding etc. If travelling with children they may enjoy the break. Decent food stalls, not a mandatory stop but can add to itinerary if time is no constrain.

Baku : One can feel confluence of Turkey here, and in many places the Turkish flag soars along with Azerbaijan’s flag. Great vibes, amazing restaurants, sheesha places, cafes, futuristic buildings, cobbled lanes with vestiges of an era gone by. It’s a blend of modernity & transportation back to ancient ages. Vintage cars, shops selling luxury brands, carpet shops, small souvenir stalls all blend together seamlessly.

Just across Baku old town is the Baku Boulevard also known as Denizkenari Milli park, along the Caspian sea it starts at Flag square and goes beyond freedom square, 5 kms of promenade with shops, cafes, Baku Ferris wheel ( inspired probably by the London eye ) & a small meandering cute boat ride. Enough and more to do here.

Would highly recommend staying at Old town over staying at the promenade. Baku has so many amazing hotels, to choose from them would be tough. Would recommend Art gallery, a small boutique hotel with limited rooms but amazing location, In old town with European vibes, small shops & cafes around, walkable to Nizami street, opposite the boulevard, big rooms, fabulous service. Only thing lacking was limited breakfast options.

Covering all places in Baku city in a day is very doable, add another day to cover the places around.

For Baku start with exploring old town, try to not stop too many times to shop for souvenirs, walk across to the fountain square, from there a short ride away is flame towers, get off there, walk along Martyrs’ Lane, which is a cemetery & memorial on the hill dedicated to all who lost their lives in the first Nagorno – Karabakh war in January 1990. Originally known as Kirov Park, it honors Azerbaijani national heroes. Walk ahead to the viewpoint, it’s a great place to take pictures of the city as it’s on a hill with amazing views of the sea, Baku wheel & Baku city. Take a funicular to go downhill. Carpet museum is almost where the funicular ends. To rest a bit take the Venice boat ride. It’s a peaceful waterways stretch along Baku Boulevard, where one can hop on a tiny gondola and float under decorative bridges. Having done that walk along the Boulevard approx a km and cross the road at the puppet museum.

As one crosses the street from peace one is transported to a busy street lined with shops and cafes. A place where one can spend hours without knowing where time flew. Great to stop for lunch & end with a baklava. Being neighbors with Turkey is probably the reason behind this delicacy being perfectly prepared. ( A layered dessert made of filo pastry, filled with chopped nuts, and sweetened with honey ) The variety of baklavas is mind blowing, most shops give a small taste if one gets totally confused on which one to buy.

In the evening or as continuation after a lunch break can walk from here to Shirvanshahs palace, a 15th-century palace built by the Shirvanshahs and described by UNESCO as one of the pearls of Azerbaijan’s architecture. A short walk away is the museum of miniature books. It holds the Guinness World Record for the largest collection of the tiniest books worldwide. The museum features a variety of miniature books, including some that are only 2mm x 2mm and require a magnifying glass to read. Entry to the museum is free, and it is open from 11 am to 5 pm.

This part of town done exploring, a drive away is Heydar Aliyev Center. Famous for it’s unique architectural design, it has a fluid undulating structure. Designed by the renowned Zaha Hadid. An architect very well known the world over, winner of highest prize for architecture in the UK, The Stirling Prize. He is also known in the UK as ‘The Queen of the curve’ Not only the exterior but also the interior has a lot of curves instead of straight lines.

To enter one can buy a museum & exhibition entry which does not include the classic car section which is a must visit. The car exhibit entry can also be bought as a standalone ticket. Vintage cars displayed here are in perfect condition, with huge blowups next to them of yesteryear celebrities driving or modelling with the cars. It houses rare car models from across the globe.

The entry ticket includes an interesting museum section which is engaged in studying, promoting and protecting Heydar Aliyev’s heritage. Spanning 3 floors it has many items on display that show Azerbaijan through the ages. From traditional clothing to musical instruments, to other designs throughout the city. Azerbaijan in a nutshell.

Outside Heydar Aliyev Center is the I LOVE BAKU sign with a backdrop of Heydar Aliyev center & of green gardens.

Hectic but possible, all in a day, be prepared to walk a lot.

Gobustan : Rock petroglyphs & mud volcanoes. An hour away from Baku is the Gobustan National Park Museum, outside the museum there are rock art petroglyphs dating back up to 40,000 years. More than 6,000 individual carvings were discovered here in the 1930s and have been protected through the Gobustan National Park. Many of the petroglyphs found here depict horses, goats, lions and other animals. Evidence suggests that animals were carved into the rock as part of pre-hunting rituals, maybe for target practice. Other petroglyphs are records of Gobustan’s culture, dance ceremonies, pregnant women depicted in profile and abstract status symbols. Faded over time, taking a guide to explain and point out the significance is recommended, guides are mostly available in the museum.

Mud volcanoes are around 30 minutes away from the museum, to reach them a tougher vehicle is required, these are co ordinated by the tour company.

Methane and carbon dioxide gases released from deep within the Earth cause Gobustan’s mud volcanoes to constantly bubble away, releasing a slow drizzle of wet mud that plasters the surrounding ground grey and black. More than half of world’s mud volcanoes are found in Azerbaijan, many in Gobustan. It’s safe to get up close as the mud is cold and the bubbles are small. Many tourists collect the mud coming from the volcanoes for applying as face packs. Not sure if it is of any good at all. Tour companies give plastic shoe protectors as else the sticky mud will take forever to be scraped off the shoe.

Absheron : Around 30 minutes from Baku is the Ateshgah Fire Temple. History of the temple goes back more to time immemorial, when Zoroastrians would come here to worship the inextinguishable fire. After the introduction of Islam the temple was destroyed & many Zoroastrians migrated to India. During the 15th -17th centuries Hindus/ Sikhs came to Absheron for trade & started pilgrimages to Surakhani. The Indian merchants started to rebuild the temple, the earliest part is dated from 1713. The latest part, the central temple-altar, in 1810. During the 18th century, chapels, cells and an inn were added. The temple has Hindu Gods & carved inscriptions in Hindi.

In beginning of 19th century the Temple got it’s present day look, mid 19th century due to earth’s movement natural gas yield stopped as did the fire burning. Pilgrims interpreted it as a punishment from God and abandoned the temple. It was used as a place of worship till 1880. Now this place has been opened for tourists with artificial fires.

Yanar Dagh, the burning mountain is hardly 20 minutes away from the fire temple. A huge sign marks the mountain much before the fire is seen. Fire at the bottom of the mountain has been burning from last 4,000 years. Historically, Yanar Dag was a site of worship for Zoroastrian fire rituals as they revered fire as a symbol of purity & divinity. In present day tourists also throw coins into the flames after making a wish. Heat from the fire burns the coins, leaving behind melted metal & hopes of many. There is a line around the fire which one cannot cross ( Lakshman rekha ? A Hindu story to be narrated some other time ) On the premises there is a museum, a cafe & a small shop. Tickets are required to see the mountain.

Gobustan & Abershan are normally clubbed together as a single day trip.

Shahdag : Around 3 hours from Baku surrounded by the breathtaking landscapes of the Greater Caucasus mountain range. Pristine glaciers and deep ravines, stunning mountain lakes and canyons. A white fairytale for most part of the year. Even summers have pleasant temperatures of 20°C.

One of this region’s largest national park, it has the largest ski resorts, having 19 ski slopes with various levels of difficulty. Shahdag is bestowed with nature’s gifts to the point where if places could be envious then Shahdag would be the place all other regions are jealous of. Here one can do skiing, snowboarding, ride snowmobile or do sledging, whatever thrills. Walks & treks can be enjoyed in summer.

Taiwan

admin — Mon, 22 Jun 2026 11:18:52 +0000

“I went for Sun Moon Lake — and ended up falling for an entire island.”

Taiwan surprised me in the best possible way. The official tourism tagline ” waves of wonder ” fits perfectly because the island really does offer incredible natural beauty and constantly changing landscapes. In Taipei alone you can hike a small mountain, and within an hour be standing near a live volcanic site. The options honestly feel endless.

Once I started researching, I couldn’t stop. How could an island of just 35,000 square kilometres — two-thirds of it mountains — have so much to explore? It quickly became clear that one trip would never be enough.

What began as a relaxed plan to unwind at Sun Moon Lake and spend a few days in Taipei turned into a full-on exploration mission. I was out from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily, my Garmin happily recording 25,000 steps a day. It’s impossible to “see it all,” but I definitely tried.

I’m sharing my experience here in the hope it helps someone planning their trip. While researching, I found too much information overwhelming, so I’m sticking to useful, relevant, simple tips. What I have not added is food ( I survived on what I had carried from back home ) & night markets. ( Cause I barely went to any )

All through my trip, I kept thinking: this feels so much like Japan. Cherry blossoms in season, unbelievably punctual high-speed trains, digital toilets with warm seats (that require reading glasses to decode!), limited vegetarian food options, Language issues, even station stamps like the eki stamps in Japan.

Create your own stamp books

The locals were incredibly polite and helpful. People who spoke English would stop to guide me through train stations, or even walk me right up to the correct bus stop without me asking. I’ve promised myself I’ll do the same back home in India — help anyone who looks a bit lost.

So here I am, Kindle and selfie stick in hand, reliving my Taiwan sojourn.

Transportation in Taiwan — my experience

There are plenty of taxis, but most drivers don’t understand English. Uber is definitely easier — the drivers still may not speak English, but at least the destination is already entered in the app, so there’s no confusion.

Public transportation is fabulous. I actually found buses easier than the MRT, because MRT stations have multiple platforms and the English signage isn’t always clear. I also noticed that in most main areas, the bus stop and MRT station share the same locality name, which makes navigation simpler.

In Taipei there are six colour-coded MRT lines, while Taichung currently has only one. Taichung MRT trains and stations feel swankier — probably because they’re newer. In many places, even the zebra crossing lights up when it’s safe to walk. Honestly, Taiwan is worth visiting just to experience how smoothly their technology works.

For intercity travel, one can take the THSR (high-speed rail). It runs at about 300 km/h, so you can cover large distances quickly without spending too much time or money. Even when you book tickets online, you still need to exchange them for a physical ticket at the station to enter the platform (just like in Japan).

If you plan to use public transport, buy an EasyCard from any 7-Eleven or FamilyMart. The card itself costs TWD 100–300 depending on the design — many people even keep it as a souvenir. One can load any amount onto it.

It’s a bit difficult to get a refund for the remaining balance (only select MRT stations in Taipei do it), so it’s better to use it up at 7-Eleven or Family mart before one leaves.

EasyCard also gives you small discounts — usually around 20% on rides, or NT$8 off when transferring between bus and train within an hour. It saves one the hassle of explaining destinations, buying tickets each time, and hunting for change.

Note:

many buses do not accept cash
one needs to tap in and tap out (even on buses)
the remaining balance shows on the screen every time one taps

Super easy once you get the hang of it

Currency

Cash is still king in most smaller places, so it’s best to carry a mix of cash, credit/debit card, and an EasyCard. This combo pretty much covers everything — street food, small cafés, convenience stores, and public transport.

Taipei

There’s so much to explore in and around Taipei as day trips. You can easily earmark 3–5 days here. Within the city, I’d recommend the places listed below.

Elephant Mountain (Xiangshan)

Elephant Mountain, locally called Xiangshan, is an easy and very popular hike. Take the MRT to Xiangshan Station, exit, cut through the park, and follow the arrows on the pavement that point toward the trail. Another nearby landmark at the start is Daitiandian Lingyun Temple.

The hike is a short climb — about 45 minutes to the very top. From the moment one start, it’s stairs all the way up. Look out for the cute elephant designs on the railings along the path.

The main viewpoints are:

Photographer’s Point – Taipei 101 looks the closest from here
Six Boulders – large rocks where people sit and take photos, don’t stop, continue for a better vantage point.
The Peak – about 15 minutes further up, with a covered platform and the best city + Taipei 101 views

On the way down, one can take a different path to get new viewpoints. If hiking is on the agenda, continue from Elephant Mountain to Thumb Mountain and 9-5 Peak — the two main peaks of Nangang Mountain. They offer similar views as Elephant Mountain, but from higher up and with fewer crowds.

There are no shops for food or water on the trail. I spotted a public water fountain and an open-air gym area where locals work out, but that’s about it — so carry water.

Best time to go ? Sunrise or sunset for the views .

After the hike I went to Taipei 101. The experience was nice — the view, honestly, not half as good as from Elephant Mountain.

Daitiandian Lingyun Temple

Cute Elle

Giant wheel at the park

Taipei 101

I was actually thinking of skipping Taipei 101 since I’d already seen amazing city views from Elephant Mountain. But I had an evening free, and curiosity won — this was the tallest building in the world from 2004 to 2010, until Burj Khalifa came along.

I also kept wondering: how does a city so prone to earthquakes dare to build something this tall? So I went mainly to see the world’s largest tuned mass damper, more than for the view — and it was worth it.

It’s a huge golden steel ball suspended between the 92nd and 87th floors. It acts like a giant pendulum, moving opposite to the building’s sway during strong winds or earthquakes and reducing the movement by up to 40%. one can actually see it from the observatory, and there’s a short video continuously playing that explains the mechanism in simple terms.

The observatory itself had Christmas displays when I visited — very cute photo spots everywhere. The elevator ride is part of the fun too; the screen shows speed and position, and it takes only about 30 seconds to go from the bottom to the top.

Inside the building there’s high-end shopping and a food court. Neither was of much use to me — too expensive and mostly non-vegetarian food. But the area around Taipei 101 has great vibes and lots of shopping, so it’s a nice place to spend an evening even if one does not go up to the top.

Longshan Temple

There are temples all across Taiwan, but I chose Longshan Temple to experience local temple culture — and also because it’s one of the oldest, originally built in 1738. It has been damaged and rebuilt multiple times due to fires and earthquakes, yet it still stands beautifully.

The moment one steps inside, there’s a sense of calm that only places of worship that have existed for centuries seem to hold. I’d highly recommend visiting and giving yourself some time just to sit, observe, and feel that peace — it goes beyond any single faith.

There are three daily chanting ceremonies:

6:00–6:45 AM
8:00–8:45 AM
3:45–5:00 PM

If one would want to plan visit around them, it’s worth it. While the chanting is happening, visitors are still free to walk around respectfully and take in the atmosphere.

The temple has a namesake MRT stop, Longshan temple MRT. Alight form there & follow signages to the temple. One of the most famous walking street is a 20 minutes walk from Longshan, Ximending. Can combine both together. If possible go to the temple around sunset & to Ximending after that.

Longshan temple

Ximending

Hop onto the MRT and get off at Ximen Station to reach Ximending Night Market. It’s a large pedestrian-only zone right in the middle of Taipei — lively, bright, and full of energy.

Ximending is known as the epicenter of trendy, youthful fashion in Taipei, with street performers, pop-up stalls, bubble tea everywhere, and lots of shopping.

On weekends it can get really crowded, so be prepared for shoulder-to-shoulder walking — but that’s also part of the fun.

It’s the best place for local clothes, cosmetics, and souvenirs — basically Taiwan’s version of Japan’s Harajuku. You won’t really find big international brands here (for that, head to Taipei 101), but that’s exactly the charm.

The whole area is car-free, so you can just wander around without worrying about traffic. Most shops start opening after 5 PM, and that’s when the vibe really picks up.

Japanese pop culture is huge here — you’ll see lots of shops with anime-style characters and vibrant colors everywhere. And speaking of Japan, there’s even a big Donki (Don Quijote) store in Ximending — with all the fun, but without the crazy queues you usually find in Japan.

Day trips from Taipei

Beitou, Yangmingshan, Qingtiangang & Yehliu

These places are best done as a day tour. It can be quite difficult and time-consuming to manage all of them on your own using public transport.

The tour I took started with Beitou — a small town just outside Taipei, at the base of the Yangmingshan mountain range, with a few nice hotels. The hot springs here have existed since time immemorial, but they really came into regular use in the early 1900s, mostly by wealthier Taiwanese and the Japanese.

The best time to visit is in winter. As one walks along the paths around the steaming sulfur springs, one constantly get a strong whiff of sulfur. The mist hanging in the air and the bubbling water are such a surreal combination.

There’s a small seating area near the main pond at the top of a little hill. The seats are actually heated by the hot spring water flowing below. I didn’t realize it at first because the signage is mostly in Taiwanese, until someone kindly pointed and gestured for me to sit there. It was a cold morning, and even though the benches are stone, they felt wonderfully warm and comfortable. I sat there for as long as the tour would let me.

There’s also a small museum that showcases the history and geology of the valley. It takes barely 10–15 minutes to see — nice to visit and check the box.

One can also bathe in some of the many hot springs in the area — there are over 20 hot spring hotels and bathhouses to choose from. Prices vary, but in general, Beitou hot springs tend to be more expensive than other hot springs around Taiwan.

The hot springs come in two varieties:

Japanese-style: separate-sex, nude baths
Taiwanese-style: mixed-sex, clothed in bathing suits

Most places, even the public baths, also offer private rooms if privacy is preferred.

A short drive from Beitou is the Yangmingshan Flower Clock — a nice spot for a quick photo. One can walk a few steps uphill to find a small temple as well. Exploring this area takes just 20–30 minutes.

Next up was Bamboo Lake — a former lake created by a volcanic eruption. In spring, the area turns into a sea of white calla lilies. When I visited in winter, it was still pretty, though probably not at its full glory.

After that came Xiaoyoukeng, a simmering dormant volcano. By public transport, it would have taken about an hour from Taipei. Situated at around 805 meters, the views are spectacular. Fumaroles emit gas and steam, and the sulfur smell is strong, with geothermal heat that’s noticeable as one gets closer. There are bubbling puddles along the footpath — very hot and not to be touched.

There are trails for exploring, and walking uphill gives a full view of Xiaoyoukeng. From the nearby platform, one can also see the volcanic cones of Qixingshan. A small café serves hot food, coffee, and snacks — perfect for a quick break after exploring.

If trying to maximize the day and include the Lengshuikeng to Qingtangang trail, it’s better not to get tempted to explore all the peaks and side trails along the way, even though the mountains look irresistible.

The main trail is about 2 km one way, not counting the Juansi Waterfall detour. There are plenty of English signages, so getting lost isn’t a concern. I hiked it from Lengshuikeng to Qingtangang, and the reward at the end is spectacular: vast, open grasslands that immediately reminded me of Switzerland. The fields are wide and uninterrupted, which also means it’s wise to carry a cap and sunglasses.

These grasslands were originally planted by the Japanese and are beautifully maintained. I even spotted a couple of wedding photoshoots happening while I was there.

If one does the trail in reverse, ending at Lengshuikeng, one can enjoy free foot baths after the trek. There are cafés at both ends of the trail, perfect for a coffee or snack to recharge.

Yehliu Geopark

It sounds hectic, but the last stop one can squeeze in for the day is Yehliu Geopark. The park is full of strange, otherworldly rock formations, each with its own character — some aptly named, others just naturally mesmerizing. Walking through it felt like a scene straight out of a Star Trek movie.

The most famous landmark is the Queen’s Head, and yes, there’s usually a line to snap a photo with her. I skipped it, because so many other formations were equally fascinating. Even the unnamed rocks, thousands of years old, had their own charm and couldn’t be ignored.

Part of the Datun mountain range, with the sea stretching alongside, Yehliu was a perfect way to end a very busy day. After taking photos to your heart’s content, be sure to sit along the shore for a few moments and simply soak in the views — it’s a peaceful, grounding way to end the tour.

Jiufen & Shifen

Jiufen and Shifen are another must-do day trip from Taipei, but unfortunately, I didn’t have enough time to visit on this trip — maybe next time!

These towns are famous for their lantern-lit streets and ethereal atmosphere, and Shifen is home to some impressive waterfalls. I would have loved to see them after sunset, when the lanterns glow and the whole place feels magical.

Taichung

Just an hour away from Taipei by high-speed train, Taichung is a smaller city that makes a great base for day trips to Sun Moon Lake, Cingjing Farm, and Alishan.

Within the city itself, you can explore highlights like the National Taichung Theater, the colorful Rainbow Village, and the scenic Gaomei Wetlands.

Taichung — What to See in a Day

All three sights can easily be covered in one day.

National Taichung Theater
Start here — entry is free. Designed by a Japanese architect, the building itself is the highlight. It’s constructed without supporting pillars or 90-degree walls, and the curves make it feel almost organic. Inside, there are performance venues, open event spaces, an outdoor plaza, and a rooftop sky garden (with a café — lovely stop if the weather is nice). Even if not watching a show, the architecture alone makes it worth a visit.

Rainbow Village
Next, head to Rainbow Village — though honestly, this one was a total miss for me. It’s basically a few brightly painted houses and a cute bus stop. That’s about it. Pop in only if you want to tick it off the list, otherwise you can happily skip and not feel FOMO.

Colorful mural in Rainbow Village, Taichung.

Gaomei Wetlands — Sunset Only!

A little away from the city lies Gaomei Wetlands, and this is one place that’s worth timing right — visit only at sunset. It’s spectacular. The landscape opens up into a vast stretch of mudflats, dotted with crabs and migratory birds, framed by giant wind turbines that complete the dramatic skyline.

There’s a long wooden boardwalk for easy walking, although the strong winds can make even that feel like a mini adventure. At the end of the boardwalk, many people take off their shoes and walk barefoot on the mudflats. It was far too windy for me to even take my hands out of my pockets, but I definitely saw braver souls out there enjoying it!

Across the road from the viewing area stands the Gaomei Lighthouse — a striking red-and-white landmark. Its light has since been relocated to the Taichung Port Lighthouse, so today it mainly serves as a photogenic sightseeing spot and part of the scenic landscape.

Sunset here isn’t just about the sky — it’s the reflection on water, silhouettes of windmills, the vast horizon, and that feeling of being surrounded by nature. Truly memorable.

Alishan — A Day Trip That Still Feels Magical

Soft mist, quiet moods, and a magic that follows you home

From Taichung, I visited Alishan as part of a tour. I would have loved to make it an overnight trip, but a few practical reasons held me back:

I didn’t have enough days in hand
public transportation logistics looked daunting for a solo traveler
hiring a private car for one person was quite expensive
accommodation options inside the park were sold out, and staying nearby would have been difficult without a car, since there aren’t many taxis in the area

After a lot of deliberation, instead of giving up on my dream of visiting this mystical place, I compromised and booked a day tour. If one can stay overnight, it would be magical to catch the famous Alishan sunrise — but even as a day trip, I felt I managed to see and experience quite a lot.

It’s a long 3.5-hour journey each way from Taichung. Because the start is very early, you can either nap or simply enjoy the beautiful mountain scenery along the route. Honestly, the drive didn’t feel tedious at all.

Once in Alishan, or even along the way, there was a bus stop with plenty of stalls selling local wasabi products. Wasabi was originally cultivated here by the Japanese. Large-scale farming was banned around 2010 due to soil erosion, but it has gradually been reintroduced in greenhouse cultivation. Wasabi is sold in many forms — powder, paste, snacks, and even ice cream.

If time is not am issue stay overnight. If not — don’t skip it. Even as a day tour, Alishan still feels every bit as mystical as you imagine.

Lost in a cloud-forest where the trees are older than stories

Alishan National Forest Recreation Area is pure magic. There’s a small entry fee and a visitor centre where you can pick up a free map — and then you’re officially inside the mist.

Think towering cypress trees, soft light, wooden boardwalks and that calm, hushed feeling you don’t forget.

No “roughing it” here — it’s super easy to navigate:
clear paths
great signages in English
cafés & restrooms when you need them

Everything one needs … but discreet, so nature still takes center stage.

Alishan Forest Railway is one of the most scenic train rides in Taiwan, winding through tea plantations, forests, and little mountain villages. Tickets are hard to get, and the full journey from Chiayi to Alishan takes about 3–5 hours each way, so an overnight stay is ideal. Just for the experience, there are shorter rides within the forest too.

Key stations for short rides

Alishan : The main hub where there is the start and end journeys, connecting to other forest lines.

Zhaoping : A short, quick ride from Alishan Station (about 7 mins), ideal for starting walks to the Sacred Tree area.

Shenmu : Located further along, it’s a good spot to get off and walk back towards Alishan, taking about an hour to walk from Zhaoping.

Chushan : Famous for sunrise viewing; runs early morning with a special timetable.

Don’t miss inside the forest:
Sisters Ponds – named after a local legend
Giant Tree Boardwalk – walk among ancient cypress giants
Three Generations Tree – over 1,500 years of history in one trunk
Shouzhen Temple & the wooden Zhouzi Bridge – quiet, timeless, beautiful

Sun Moon Lake

I saved my favorite part for the end. Sun Moon Lake turned out to be bigger and more beautiful than any photograph I had seen. The paths were longer than I had imagined, the lake quieter, and the small cluster of hotels on one side gave it an almost hidden, intimate feel. Surrounded by mountains, the lake is said to resemble the sun on one side and the moon on the other — that’s how it gets its name.

It took barely an hour to reach from Taichung THSR, and the journey itself was scenic. I stayed at a hotel right by the lake, separated only by the cycling track . The trees around were brushed with autumn colors, and this was the place I had promised myself I would slow down, polish my newly acquired cycling skills, and simply unwind. I almost managed it.

The cycling path along the lake is the natural first thing to do. It runs for about 5 km one way and then you turn back, not a full loop. Cyclists, runners, and walkers share the route , A couple of cute bridges and clearings with benches to sit and admire the view completed the picture perfectly. It is all very gentle and unhurried.

After that, one can head to what must be one of the most scenic Starbucks locations — right on the lake in the Shuishe area. Its outdoor terrace has uninterrupted lakefront views and was surprisingly not crowded at all. On a related note, Starbucks has a presence in almost every corner of Taiwan.

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To explore further and enjoy the areas around the lake from the water, the best option is a one-day boat pass for around NTD 300, valid for unlimited rides (cash only ). Starting around morning keeps the day relaxed and still leaves the evening free for the lakeside. Tickets are sold at the pier, or can be purchased in advance.

From Shuishe Pier, the first stop is Xuanguang Temple Pier. The temple dedicated to the monk Xuanzang is peaceful and scenic, a lovely place just to sit quietly for a while. From there, a short uphill walk leads to Cien Pagoda. For those who want to push a bit more, it is possible to climb the many steps inside the pagoda for wide lake views.

The next main stop is Ita Thao Pier, an aboriginal village area with food, shops and a lively atmosphere . This is also where the cable car to the Formosan Aboriginal Cultural Village departs. The cable car ride itself takes about 10 minutes and offers great views, with a glass-bottom option available for a slightly higher price. The Aboriginal complex includes themed zones, rides and large European-style gardens. I couldn’t do this because the tickets were cash only, and with limited NTD left I chose to hold on to it, instead I sat in the square and listened to live music, which felt just right. From Ita Thao, one can take the ferry back to Shuishe Pier, making it a relaxed and unhurried morning

One place I did omit was Wenwu Temple — try to fit that in if possible. What I did do, and would highly recommend, is maximizing time in this beautiful town. Wake up for the sunrise, be outdoors, slow down, and simply soak in the calm.

Sun Moon Lake is one of those places that lingers long after you leave

Georgia…The cradle of wine

Sapna Rateria — Mon, 06 Nov 2023 09:19:56 +0000

Thank to Indigo starting a direct flight from India and visas not required for Indians travelling to Georgia if holding a valid UK, USA and Schengen visa, this holiday was fast planned and faster executed. Not to do with the destination, traveling on Indigo on a longish flight is either punishing oneself or desperation to explore more of the world.

Technically Asia but located between Europe and Asia, a tiny country, former Soviet republic. Home to Caucasus Mountain villages and Black Sea beaches. Birth place of Wine, here you sip history while you explore it. Archeologists have found 8000 years old fragments of Kvevri or clay jar which was used to make wine in Tbilisi. Home to some of the oldest and most authentically made wines. A lot of it is exported but the best ones are kept for local consumption. Perfect way to discover these are to visit the local vineyards and restaurants.

Beautiful and bestowed with natures blessings it’s a compact package. Getting around by public transportation between cities may be tough but the private tours are affordable and luxurious. An escorted one in a branded car would cost less that what a do it yourself holiday would cost in Europe.

History, nature’s bounty, updated infrastructure, hiking, trekking would be the top reasons to explore Georgia. Super luxury stays probably not.

Caveat : However much research I do before travelling, and whatever I share through my experiences would be such a tiny fraction of what can be done. I personally find blogs so helpful and read a lot of them to plan my travel. I want to do my bit in the quest of making someone’s memories better.

Trivia :

Half a day to explore the historical neighborhood of Tbilisi, Metekhi, Sioni and Anchiskhati would be good. Start by going to Narikala fortress by cable car, admire the Mother of Georgia statue which is visible from afar as well. From Narikala walk down to Sulfur bath district constructed in the XVII- XVIII centuries under influence of Islamic architectural style. The district is also called as “Abanotubani” where several, hot sulfur springs immerged. On way visit the waterfall near botanical garden. Stop at Meidan Bazar for souvenirs before continuing to Chardin Street, famous pedestrian area with international cafes, small shops and the Gabriadze Puppet Theater with the clock tower. It’s pretty cobbled pedestrian streets with no vehicles allowed and lined with cafes & pubs, continue to the main avenue of Shota Rustaveli (constructed in the XIX century) with the theatres, Museums, art galleries and Parliament building. Out of the many historical churches, a must visit would be The Holy Trinity Cathedral.

Lanes of Tbilisi

Modern structure to see : President Palace, the Justice house, Bridge of peace.

Mtatsminda Amusement Park : Perched on a mountain with great views of the city. Good to head here at sunset even if travelling without children. There is no entry fee to the park only for the rides. Great place if travelling with children. Keep expectations in check it’s not Disneyworld.

Giant wheel at the park

Mtatsminda Amusement Park

Hot Sulfur baths : Legend says the hot sulfur water is what made King Vakhtang to build a city around it. From what was basic baths then it has evolved to private ones now with colorful domes, decorative tiles and private rooms. Most are located in Abanotubani, very central. These are bathhouses primarily and not Spas, not sure how good their spa treatment would be. Public ones are cheap but would mean disrobing in front of strangers. They are gender separated. The private ones you can rent a bath depending on the number of people. Family & friends can share the room. Kisi ( scrub ) is charged additional and can be paid directly to the Mekisi. (scrubber) Tipping is optional.

Towels, scrubs etc all have to be bought at nominal charges. Idea is to hop in the hot bath and then take a cold shower alternately. Finish off with a scrub by a Mekisi. Keep hydrated and don’t stay too long in the Sulphur water as it can draining. The best bath in my opinion is Chreli-Abano.

Mtskheta & nearby : An hour and half from Tbilisi is the former capital of Georgia. Mtskheta is UNESCO heritage site located at the crossing of two rivers and the ancient trade routes. Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta is the splendid architectural monument and the first Christian church in Georgia. It is the burial site of Georgian monarchs of Bagrationi dynasty. Jesus Christ’s robe is believed to be buried inside as well. Outside there are many shops selling trinkets & souvenirs, cheaper than elsewhere. Also sold here are home made wines in plastic bottles, which can be tasted before buying. The pomegranate ones are really good.

On the way back visit Jvari Monastery, a sixth century Orthodox monastery. On a hill over lookin the Mtkvari and the Aragvi rivers. Not only the Monastery but the views are incredible also.

Chronicle of Georgia : Massive structures of bronze, copper and stone, commissioned in 1985 and looks complete now, however there is no entrance fee and most people don’t know about it. Its good for some Instagrammable pictures. The main monument has 16 pillars each one sculptured. Behind the pillars is a small chapel with great views. Can be covered along with Mtskheta.

Bioli wellness resort : 15 kms from Tbilisi is this wellness resort, located 1200 meters above sea level. With zero pollution and green hills as far as your eyes can see its a wonderful place to relax. It is envisioned as a place to stay for improving overall health or maybe a specific health issue. Breakfast is only served from 10AM. Food options are not many but what they do serve is brilliant to taste and a visual delight. Reminded me of master chef dishes where every ingredient is blended together thoughtfully. No swimming pool and apart from beautiful walks and cycling around not that much to do. Loved staying here. The cottages are small with glass on all sides bringing in the nature inside, gives a sense of staying in a luxurious tree house. Armed with books or whatever brings about personal Zen space, stay here can be extended to a week, only for those who are comfortable with themselves and don’t want constant activity. The resort offers free health consultation for all guests, it’s a short one where the consultant doctor by the help of a machine tells the mineral, metal & stress levels in the body.

Cycling at Bioli

Tsalka Canyon : Earlier know as Dashbashi Canyon, Tsalka is a deep mountain gorge around 2 hours from Tbilisi. I loved this place the best in Georgia. An architect’s dream probably, a 240 meter long transparent bridge with a diamond shaped transparent bar suspended in the middle. It’s supposed to be the world’s largest hanging structure. Whoever thought of this one had great imagination and risk taking appetite to invest so much in the middle of nowhere. Can go berserk clicking pictures, all guaranteed Insta worthy. Highlight is the biking zip line, super scary to look at but so safe and so much fun. Was 100% sure I want to do this, then the driver scared me a bit…he was like errr, it is a bit extreme. Trust me it was not.

Minor thrills after the major one ? Try the cliff swing, which actually is quite tame after the adrenaline rush from the zipline cycling. Tickets being sold by people around is slightly cheaper than buying at their counter. Can buy a combo of both activities also. Trek lovers can walk down a 1800 meter long path from the Visitor Center to the canyon. The hike down to the waterfall is paved.

The hanging bar serves only coffee & drinks. There is a restaurant near the visitor’s center with views of the diamond bar for lunch & dinner. Could spot cottages around for staying as well. Not sure how good they are.

Kakheti / Sighnaghi Kakheti is the most visited wine region in Georgia, because of it’s proximity to Tbilisi many tourists visit it, hence it’s popularity.

Sighnaghi ( City of Love ) a town in Kakheti is around 2 hours from Tbilisi. Although it is one of Georgia’s smallest towns, It’s so pretty and quaint, can opt to stay here for a night, it’s at the heart of Georgia’s wine-growing region, has picturesque landscapes, pastel houses with wooden fretwork balconies, and narrow, cobblestone streets. It’s know as the city of love as many come here to say their wows or to reiterate them. It has a wedding house where one can marry anytime of the day. Could spot fun lovers riding quad bikes around the town.

There are various number of wineries in Kakheti as the region is very developed as a wine producing area, as per preference any one of the many wineries may be chosen to visit and tour. I visited Winery Khareba, they had some great wines as part of the tasting tour, temptation to pick up many was there. The realization that packing it with clothes may be a risky affair curbed the desire to some extent. Wine cellars are in tunnels that are very cold, blankets are given as part of the tour. They have a baking class also which is a waste of time and money. Would advise to skip that.

Bodbe Nunnery : A small chapel surrounded by beautiful gardens. Just 10 minutes from Sighnaghi. It is built on the burial place of Saint Nino, a 4th century female saint, who converted many Georgians to Christianity. Besides it’s historical significance it has been repaired and restored many times and is very beautiful.

Kazbegi : Around 3 and half hours from Tbilisi and barely 12 kms from Russian border it is the third-highest peak in Georgia, and the seventh-highest summit in the Caucasus Mountains. A must visit for mountain lovers and trekkers. The trek up to Gergeti Trinity church (2170 M) is not challenging and would be fun to do if staying there overnight. 4X4 vehicles can carry non trekkers right up, there are horses also available. Spotted an exciting long zipline as well, sadly had no time to try that. Visiting in summer would be best as there are not much foliage around for this region to be picturesque in Autumn, in winter trekking would not be possible. Kazbegi can be avoided if mountains don’t excite, its a long drive for a day trip. There is a hotel there called The Rooms. Seemed like a good one, was buzzing with tourists, read somewhere that without reservation it’s tough to get a table for lunch.

Kazbegi

On the way to Kazbegi can make a pit stop at Ananuri and Zhinvali Reservoir. The dam was built in 1986. Water is a perfect blue color and surrounded by mountains. Faintly resembling the Fjords of Norway. Ananuri fortress is a sixteenth-century castle complex on the Aragvi River. The fortress stands beside the famous Georgian Military Highway, overlooking the large Zhinvali lake. The main church façade is beautifully carved with animal, floral and Celtic style patterns. There are a few shops selling souvenirs as well as snacks and food. Photo ops have been created which can be used for a small fee.

Zinvali reservoir & lake

Some tips 1) Download bolt app for taxis, hailing a cab will cost 10 times more. 2) If you want to party ensure you are in Tbilisi on Friday & Saturday night, all good clubs are closed other days of the week. 3) Vegetarians will get only 2 local food to eat apart from fruits. Kachapuri : A flat bread filled with cheese or potato Lobia : Red beans served as a curry or stuffed in bread. Maybe advisable to carry some food.

Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur, India

Sapna Rateria — Fri, 28 Jul 2023 10:22:41 +0000

This one is all about fan girl memories, Lake Palace was not my first choice for this vacation, a long holiday weekend with sky high airfares is what fated me here. Having stayed in a few other palace turned hotels I did not expect to be awed by this one.

One of the most photographed hotels in the world., guess there would be reasons for that.

Taj ensures this hotel is exclusive. Guests who are not staying here can’t come for just a meal or a drink. In the midst of lake Pichola, surrounded by Aravalli mountains the only way to reach here is by their own boat which has to be taken from their own exclusive jetty.

It was built in 1746 by Maharana Jagat Singh II, handed over to Taj in 1971 to be run as a hotel. Custodians to the heritage and not only the palace, they have surpassed their responsibility to preserve the traditions, everyone working here makes guest feel like royalty, pampered to the hilt. Not a single artifact, painting or carved ornate pillar has been changed. Rooms have been added seamlessly.

I guess the enthusiasm starts with the boatman who entertains with stories of the Palace and Udaipur. It’s a short ride to the Palace from the jetty but the momentum is built up.

Trivia :

Udaipur has never been ruled by Mughals or British and the current king Maharaja Arvind Singh still owns a lot of property in Udaipur. Fateh Prakash and Lake Palace are owned by him and given on lease to Taj.

A spoilt pampered Indian, the arrival was not as grand as I expected, escorted under the royal umbrella to the reception with rose petals been showered , hmmmm the rose petals were too few and just for the records.

I had requested for a room near the reception as had a fractured ankle, the room I got was as close as possible with one wall which was a full window with a view of the lake and mountains. I thought I would not be able to tear myself away from this view but luckily better sense prevailed , I mean it is a Palace on an island which is actually just 4 acres so most places would have this stunning view. Tip: book a room with lake view.

Lake palace is not just about the beautiful lake and the surrounding mountain but also about the architecture, pure white marble, and at some places colorful glass from around the wall etched on the pillars adding color to the pristine white surrounding. A Lily pool, minus the lilies now is at the center of the Palace, where breakfast can be served. Trees and flowers all grown and placed perfectly. The antique paintings and intricately carved artifacts are placed so casually, I am sure each must be worth a mini fortune. It’s history preserved and shared.

After visual senses pampered to the hilt and guests want more, there is a open lounge where board games can be enjoyed, or maybe just spend hours reading and soaking in the ambience. A swimming pool which has a heart shaped tree shading it lovingly. A bar which has some special drinks which are borderline healthy ( maybe I am just trying to feel less guilty but that’s what they claim ) They have a multi cuisine restaurant, many of the tables here face the lake.

Evenings can be packed or at leisure, live musical and local dance performances, a tour of the palace, a boat ride on the lake with the boatman doubling up as a guide. If there is no private buyout the boat stops at Jag Mandir, it’s a small island with a café and gardens, Jag Mandir is let out for events and celebrations and is owned by the current Maharaja. Superbly maintained and with lots of photo ops. Don’t want to do any of these ? Just relax by the indoor courtyard of Lake Palace which has a flutist playing soothing notes every evening for an hour. The same flutist has been doing this from last 22 years.

Visuals sorted, entertainment taken care of, next it’s pampering probably the way mothers can. For me probably more so cause of my broken ankle. The restaurant manager noticing the injury had turmeric milk ready for me when I went for breakfast, will help bones heal better he advised with a knowing smile. A gentle look and helping hand were offered every time I needed to navigate a few steps. Initially not wanting to take help as wanted to be self reliant, at some point I gave up, I mean back in Mumbai no one would be indulging me.

Don’t know how they do it but every time I would enter the room there would be a different sweet placed on the table. All my books had new bookmarks placed inside.

I had not planned to blog this time as have written about Palace hotels and about Udaipur but this is about appreciating the wonderful heritage we have & which is being preserved so well. Its on a holiday like this that I feel so proud to be an Indian and can on borderline arrogance say no other country can match up to this hospitality and subtle grandeur.

Norway in a nutshell

Sapna Rateria — Wed, 26 Jul 2023 11:39:08 +0000

Before travelling to Norway I read a lot of blogs on the country, the names and details intimidated me. I was like wow, so much to see and so confusing, I had 8 days and clueless how to pack all in. My blog aims to help people plan their trip in a nutshell. This is also what the beautiful scenic journey From Bergen to Oslo or vice versa is called, more about that later.

This year I had promised to myself an international run, world majors runs being difficult to get entry to, ( I need to work on my pace ) I thought if not a word major it has to be the most scenic one. The obvious choice was the Tromsø midnight run. Dreaming of my personal best I tripped on a practice run ( thank you Government of India for roads where every run is filled with adventure) In a cast with the doctor advising no runs for next 3 months I was determined to salvage what I could. Used the booked tickets and turned this into a holiday to Norway. Intention was to probably hobble with the runners and feel the vibe, hope not to feel too left out. A zillion plans now, very different from the original one.

Tromsø :

The city with the midnight sun. I landed at 10PM and the sun was as bright as if it was 12 noon. Tromsø airport is quite small, with glass all around, did I land in the mountains and not an airport ?????

From the airport to reach the city there are taxis easily available and airport shuttle The Flybussen. The city at close to 11 PM was awake, pubs open, people on the roads, I guess all using the days & nights of light to the utmost . To stay in Norway any of the Thon hotels are good, well located, well priced and with a good breakfast spread to start the day. With most of Tromsø on an island all can be covered by walking or by cycles which can easily be rented. The city does not have a separate cycling lane though. Or else a bus pass, all major cities of Norway have bus passes which make exploring the city very reasonable and convenient. PS : It’s fun to just sit at any of the cafes on the harbor and enjoy the views.

Things to do :

Midnight sun cruise : Take a pick from the various ones offered but MUST do any one. Starts at 10 PM and ends earliest at 1AM. Could not stop clicking pictures of the sky, frustrated as nothing that I clicked could capture the actual hues. It gets very chilly on the boat, do carry all the woolens that may be needed to stay up on the decks. Hot chocolate & cookies are part of all cruises.

Artic Cathedral & Fjellstua : Tromsdalen Church, also known as Ishavskatedralen (The Arctic Cathedral) can be viewed from afar. Visible from the Tromsø Sound, the Tromsø Bridge and when landing in Tromsø. A glass and mosaic structure, simple and impressive.

Walkable from there is the Fjellstua cable car which goes from Solliveien in Tromsdalen up to Storsteinen, 421 meters above sea level, in just four minutes. It has a restaurant which serves some basics, would recommend to carry some food and have a picnic on the mountains. Enough flat spaces to enjoy a meal with the spectacular views all around. Do check timing of cable car to plan well.

Prestvannet & Telegrafbukta : Prestvannet is a small lake in central tromso, can skip if short of time, around 5 kms from there is Telegrafbukta, a lovely beach surrounded by mountains and water. Peaceful with picnic tables and amazing views. There is no food sold here, best to carry some. Was shivering with my jacket in June and wondering how the locals were happily sun bathing in swimwear. Don’t expect too much sand, its more greenery and mountains.

Magic Ice bar : This one I spotted in Bergen as well, I guess they have it in all major cities of Norway. Everything inside is made of ice including the chairs, tables, glasses they serve drinks in. Temperature is maintained at -5. A fun thing to to do, I lasted 15 minutes inside the bar. Had to finish my drink outside the bar. They allow that. Max people last here is 45 minutes as confessed by the bartender. Fun trivia : Canadians last the most.

Midnight run : HAVE to talk about this, they have all categories starting from 4 kms up to 42 kms. Start time for the full is 8:30 PM and the rest are all later. Guess motive is to be on a run at midnight. They don’t expect Kipchoge here

Its full carnival feel with a toddlers run as well, it’s so cute to see babies with running bibs as big as they are. Running in any direction they want, clueless about the finish line.

Stalls selling food, people having wine on the roads, fun and laughter all around. Ignoring doctor’s advice and my saner self I did a 8km run just to get a feel of the vibes. I was ecstatic at the end, requested for a not earned medal as a souvenir which I was shamelessly wearing.

Bergen :

From the airport to city center taxis and The Fybussen is easily available. Known as the capital of fjords and surrounded by 7 mountains, its rainy most days of the year. Postcards of Bergen mostly depict colorful wooden buildings on the wharf just by the main harbor. Only 58 or 62 of them are left now, converted to shops selling souvenirs.

Bryggen would be the central area to stay in. The harbor, pedestrian walking area in the shopping district, monument of sailor, park with fountains, station all would be walkable. The park at Bergenhus has a lovely fountain and a café selling fresh breads and coffee. A bus pass would be the cheapest and best way to get around. Bergen is ideal for activities such as hiking, cycling or kayaking. Happy thing to do : Having Ice cream from the shops at Bryygen sitting by the harbor. Enjoying the buzz of activity, from ships and tourists.

Things to do :

Fjord tour : Obviously, this is synonymous with Bergen. A must for the region’s jaw dropping landscapes. Try to reach early and board at the earliest to get a good spot on the deck. It would be a shame to sit inside. Most of the tours sell wine & beers along with some snacks. Weather can change any time in Bergen, advisable to have a rain proof jacket handy always. As for the cruise itself, It’s impossible to describe the experience, won’t even try.

Ulriken or Mount Floyen : For views of the city. Ulriken has a higher mountain feel and is outside the city, can take the cable car or hike up. Mount Floyen is from city center and can go by funicular or hike up. Take a pick, would not recommend to do both as its similar experience. For better views Ulriken, with children Mount Floyen. Ulriken has a restaurant called Skyskraperen at the top which is highly rated. Did not feel it warranted so much attention. Good but not amazing.

Norway in a Nutshell : Highlight of the trip, the spectacular journey starting from Bergen and ending at Oslo. Bergen to Voss is a train which I found was the the least spectacular part of the journey, even so try to get a seat on the left side of the train for better views. Seamlessly connects to a bus journey to Gudvangen. This part is mind blowing good. The bus stops at Stalheim as a photo stop as well as for all who want to break the journey. The journey can be broken up at every point. Activities on the way can also be added. From Gudvangen its a cruise in the fjords up to Flam. Try to travel as light as possible. Luggage has to be taken care personally.

Flam has a few good places to stay, also works as a great mid point to break journey instead of continuing on to Oslo making the day hectic.

If willing to experiment would highly recommend staying at Flam campsite. They have all kinds of rooms including a dormitory. Complete with a community kitchen, they have all equipment to cook a full meal. Take Maggie noodles at least to to cook. I was most excited about this stay and it did not disappoint. Children would love to run around the vast gardens. It’s a road away from the station and ferry terminal. Enough restaurants and cafes around. Nothing to do though except cycle around. Cycles can be rented easily. Just breathe in the clean mountain air. Total detox.

From Flam to Oslo is a 6 hour journey by train. The first part is a short 50 minute ride on the breathtaking Flam railway, looked like an ancient train with commentary on the route, they have a picture stop at a magnificent waterfall at Myrdal. The final train was from Myrdal to Oslo, a journey which was the last part but not the least part. Has a cafeteria as well as a family car for adults with toddlers. This section was totally padded up to ensure falling babies don’t get hurt. It went too fast, wine and views…. memories made forever.

Flekkefjord : A picturesque town located in southern Norway, known for stunning fjord landscape. While there can take a ferry to Hidra, a small island known for it’s rugged coastline and hiking trails. They have an interesting unique concept of rail biking. Safe for people with small children also, covering 17 tunnels and having several stops, recommended to carry some food along and head lamps.

Oslo :

Capital of Norway and I was expecting a big city ( not a fan of big cities)

Maybe its just cause of the area I was in, what I found was a lovely compact city full of greenery, cobbled roads, roadside cafes, music all around. I LOVED it. Must stay in any hotel near Karl Johan’s gate. Every activity would be in a radius of 2 kms. Karl Johan hotel is a good one. A bus pass to get around is really not needed as everything is walkable. 70% of Norway is greenery. Pretty impressive. Norway also ranks high in the index of happiest countries of the world.

Things to do :

List down all monuments and museums and google map them and walk around. They are all close by. Only Vigeland Park having sculptures is at some distance. Or take a walking tour, the guide will know exactly how to do all with least amount of walking. Guides also know a lot of stories & history which make the city interesting.

Take an Island hopping tour or just buy tickets at the dockyard and do it yourself, its pretty simple, only advantage of taking a tour is again, the guide will have some interesting tales about each island.

Shop at the shops at Karl Johan gate or just relax after a hectic holiday and soak in the vibes.

Note :

Norway has excellent hiking, biking, trekking, fishing & boating experiences from all cities and towns. There will never be any place which does not give opportunities for the active traveler. This is probably a simplified, touristy version of all that can be done in Norway, hope it helps.

Mexico

Sapna Rateria — Mon, 19 Dec 2022 12:01:02 +0000

A world of it’s own :

Writing this blog with a prayer of thanks to the Universe for giving us such a wonderful world, and to the Almighty for giving me the means and opportunity to explore and experience a small part of it. On a somber note please do your bit for sustainable tourism, don’t waste food and resources, try to use public transport, carry your own bags and water bottles. If the recent pandemic has not opened our eyes to the threat the world is facing then what will ? This is the first country I got to add after 3 years to my list of countries visited, surely sobered me down

I am so overwhelmed by the sheer magnitude of Mexico, history, beaches, culture, shopping, museums, pubs, restaurants it’s all whatever anyone would want X 100. This blog is scratching the surface of what Mexico has on offer. A few tips are what I had researched and did not have the time to experience myself, hope it’s useful and relevant.

Most tourists head to the Mexican part of the Yucatan peninsula. Yucatan, Quintana Roo and Campeche. The high end all inclusive resorts are mostly found in Cancun, Tulum and Playa del Carmen. ( Quintana Roo ) They are all good, brochure perfect with infinity pools. Ensure to take one that has its own beach, most of them do. I stayed at The fives hotels & residences which offers an all inclusive plan. Taking an all inclusive comes with pros and cons….Pros : its non stop party, indulge 24 hours of the day with food, entertainment, drinks. Cons: control is difficult and a few stones get added to the weight for sure.

Merida the capital of Yucatán state is my favorite place to go in Mexico. It’s way bigger than I thought, which was initially disappointing as was looking forward to a quaint town which was actually a city. Fortunately it had all the vibes of a town rather than a city. Campeche has the magnificent Mayan ruins. If one is short of time just visiting this peninsula could be an appetizer till one could come back for more. Ubers are available in most places.

Cancun, Tulum, Playa del Carmen :

Known for its luxury resorts, many just come here for their dose of Vitamin Sea and not step out at all. Which is a pity as there is much to do around. Chichen Itza, Cenotes, Tulum to name a few.

Tulum :

An hour and 15 minutes away from Playa Del Carmen located on the coastline is Tulum archeological site. The only ancient city overlooking the Caribbean sea and on the top of a hill. The walk to the site as well as when looking around is in full sun with very little shade. Carry water, hats and shades. Built in the 13h-century, one of the last cities built and inhabited by the Maya. Because of its proximity to the sea a lot of trade happened here. It flourished between the 13th and 15th centuries. By the 16th century it was abandoned. The beauty of this coastal city can be well imagined, it’s lush with greenery and a short walk up the cliff to see the coast is highly recommended. Iguanas can be seen in abundance, big lizards which look cute and harmless, absolutely fascinating.

After being in the sun so long most tours in the Yucatan region end with a dip in a cenote, (a natural pit, or sinkhole resulting from the collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes cool water) I visited the gran cenote after Tulum, it was good, turquoise crystal clear water, small fish, caves with bats, decent toilets and a cute open air shower, the entry price includes life jackets. I feel there would be better ones around. It’s mandatory to take a shower before entering any cenote in order to preserve its ecosystem. Carry a swim suit, quick dry towel and swim shoes, go pro and snorkels would be a value add. At the gran cenote they don’t have much food to sell but if carrying food they have gardens where it would be fun to picnic. Want to make it a little more fun ? Visit an adventure park they feature cenotes, ziplines, lagoons, snorkeling, canoes, cliff jumps and more. Lunch break options from Tulum : La Coqueta (7kms) El Milagrito (7kms) Posada Margarita (6kms)

From Quintana Roo ( Cancun, Tulum or Playa del Carmen ) to Chichen Itza it approx 2 and half hours, instead to going back it’s better to go ahead to Merida, approx 5 hours by road, start early maximize the day by visiting some places along the way. Quintana Roo to Valladoid (2hrs) Chichen Itza (45 minutes) Merida (2 hrs) The ambitious can fit in a cenote as well.

Valladolid :

A small town untouched by tourism. Explore San Servacio Church, walk on Calzada de los, the most instagrammable street, take a picture with the Valladolid sign. Have lunch at Conato Cultural 1910, incredible presentation, ambience & flavors. Gelato at Wabi , swim in nearby cenotes Suytun (for pictures, not necessarily to swim) Zaci (in the middle of town) San Lorenzo Oxman (has a rope swing) Saamal (artificial waterfall and lunch buffet)

Chichen Itza :

One of the new wonders of the world, the main 3 buildings are Pyramid of Kukulkan, Temple of Warriors, Great Ball Court. Said to be named after a cenote nearby. Those days fresh water was scarce and the cenote is said to have played a major part in prominence of this place, where hundreds of Mayans are said to come every day for work and trade. It’s said this city also had suburbs, built around 400-600 AD it met its end around 12th -15th century. A collection of events may have caused that, draughts, arrival of Spanish, weather conditions. Was eventually discovered in 1841.

Interesting facts :

The main pyramid nest smaller pyramids inside similar to Russian dolls. It acts as a calendar, 365 steps, 91 on each side and 1 on top. Each side representing a season. Monuments were astronomically aligned, the round-shaped observatory, El Caracol, which was used to gauge the positions of planets and the sun.

The pyramid was designed in a way that the sun forms a shadow of a serpent twice a year. 21st of March and 21st of September. Head of the serpent is sculpted at the base of the pyramid and on those days when the sun goes down for a few minutes it looks as if the serpent is descending. Gives goose bumps to think how the people would have felt thinking their God is descending. Even now on these dates people flock to see the phenomenon. A couple of days earlier and later also this can be seen with lesser crowds.

Great ball court, the largest ball court in America where the difficult but seemingly harmless game of Pok Ta Pok was played. Teams of 2 or 4 had to keep a ball weighing up to 4 kgs off the ground and pass it through a vertical hoop in the center of the court. They could use only 1 side of their body, hips, knees, elbows and heads. That side was protected by shields. At the end of the game 1 person would be sacrificed. Logic would say from the losing team, but it’s said it would be from the winning team as a sacrifice has to be of the best person. I would just play badly to stay alive but it’s said from birth it’s ingrained that it’s an honor to be sacrificed and all would play to win.

Merida :

Known to be one of the safest cities in America including USA, this says a lot as Mexico is in(famous) for crime. Stay at Montejo street or Plaza Grande and within a radius of 5 kms all that a tourist will want would be covered. Anyone who likes walking will not have to Uber at all.

Plaza Grande :

Walking tour Monday to Saturday from Palacio Municipal in Plaza Grande around 9:15 AM, it’s free, tips are expected. San Ildefonso Cathedral one of the oldest in America. A picture with the Merida sign and the U & I chairs, these funny looking chairs are supposed to have been created by a protective father, so that his daughter and her suitor don’t sit next to each other. Shop at Centro for dream catchers if they fascinate you, best ones are found in Merida, or anything hand crafted that catch fancy, just buy, most of the times they are prettier than what Mexico city has to offer.

Every evening at the Plaza there are some events happening which are free. Recreation of the game Pok Ta pok happens every Saturday at 8PM.

Stroll at Paseo de Montejo street, starts from a park called El Remate and ends at Monumento a la Patria. A 3.2 kms long street, trees lining all the way, free wifi on the road. Plenty of places to stop on the way for a drink, the prettiest Starbucks I have seen.

Monumento a la Patria is magnificent during the day and even more at night when it’s lit up. It has over 300 hand carved figures. Brunch at Rosas & Xocolate Boutique Hotel. Saturday evenings and Sunday morning this street turns into a cycling zone. Cycles can be rented for as low as Rs 200, a huge variety of them, tandem, with a child seat, with baskets, could spot a dozen variations. Don’t want to cycle ? Take a fun carriage ride.

Southern end of Paseo Montejo to Calle 47 (47th Street) is the Restaurant Row.

Other things to do :

Photograph the Hotel Casa Azul, you would spot in while walking down the restaurant street. It’s blue and striking. Munch on nuts and sweets sold by roadside vendors. Take a Photo on the Big Chairs in Parque Santa Lucia, it’s got lively music in the evenings and restaurants. Dinner & Live Music at Mercado 60. Both theses are almost next to each other. Dine at Casa Maya, Centro it has fun ambience with swings and local vibes. Other good dining options, Catrin, Oliva Enoteca, Amado by the beer box. Want to make it an outing for lunch ? Drive down to Hacienda Teya around 10 kms from Merida.

Uxmal :

An hour away from Merida, I found these ruins or archeological site more fascinating than Chichen Itza, it was more organized from a tourist’s perspective. It’s a UNESCO world heritage site. I could imagine people living in harmony and there were such peaceful vibes. Dating to 700 AD it’s said to have 25000 inhabitants. It maybe lost it’s importance around 1200, no new buildings could be seen made after that.

Main Pyramid at the entry is Pyramid of the Soothsayer. Huge with lots of motifs and sculptures depicting Chaac, the God of rain.

A short climb up is the Governor’s house, calm peaceful and from here the view of the site is incredible.

The name Uxmal comes from the word Oxmal, which means built 3 times. Suggesting that there has been many alterations before it got its appearance as we see today. Unlike Chichen Itza, Uxmal had people living there. Natural water storage can been seen still. Sculptures of serpents seem to dominate both the sites.

Hacienda Mucuyche : Hacienda means a large estate with a house. After every sightseeing in this region it makes total sense to end it with a cenote. After the heat a refreshing swim in cool clean natural pools would definitely be a unique experience doable only in Yucatan. For that reason and some more after Uxmal unquestionably go to Hacienda Mucuyche which is around 45 minutes from Uxmal . Prior reservation is mandatory, make sure to book an English tour as they have Spanish ones as well. A 3 PM one is recommended giving enough time to enjoy lunch and a tour of the estate before plunging into the cool waters. Here approximate time given to enjoy the cenote is an hour, it’s a guided swim with someone explaining the phenomenon and being around all the time. As earlier carry swim suit, quick dry towels, and swim shoes. Go Pro and snorkels if possible. This was a far better one than the Gran cenote, proper steps leading to the waters, there were 2 cenotes named Carlota and Mayan Blue.

Discovered just 10 years back when the latest owner sent some scuba divers to explore a well on the estate. Open to public merely 3 years back it already has a lot of tourists visiting it. Life jackets are provided and is mandatory to wear. The cenote is absolutely stunning and deep. It’s like being surrounded by crystals. Sparkling stalactites and stalagmites all around, Lights are put strategically to make it seem ethereal. There is a swimming pool at the estate to chill at after or before the cenote. A restaurant which serves local food and drinks.

Mexico City :

All the stories about it being unsafe were luckily only stories for me. I found it safe and as vibrant as New York. Personally even better than New York. Only downside could be traffic, takes ages to travel even 1 km. Most big cities I advocate taking a hop on bus, it’s fun and covers all tourist points at one’s own pace. Travelling with kids ? Check out Bosque de Chapultepec, it’s a 1,600 acre park, the green lung of a buzzling city.

Coyoacan :

A a great area for local shopping, must visit Parroquia San Juan Bautista a gorgeous church there. Google for the closest artisian market here or anywhere else in the city for bright colorful Mexican souvenirs.

Lucha Libre :

Another name for freestyle wrestling where the contestants wear masks, the loser is supposed to lose his mask permanently. Though it’s know to be staged it’s still good fun, originating from Mexico this sport can now been seen in other parts of USA as well. Would recommend VIP seats with food included, the food is nothing to write home about but the experience is great. Happens every Tuesday, Friday & Saturday. Tickets can be bought online, mostly available on site as well.

Top bars :

The cocktails had here would be the best I’ve had in any city, got introduced to Mezcal and now hunt for it in Mumbai as well. Cocktails curated in Mexico city I found were low on sugar and high on flavors, and very easy on the pocket. Licoreria Liantour (recommended drink, Mango Pina) La Calandestina (my personal favorite place for the best artisanal Mezcals & salsa) Tiecan Mezcalaria (good vibes & bar nibbles) La Zaranda (cute curbside place with good cocktails) Handshake (did not get space as did not have reservation, it’s a hidden bar with no visible signage) Xaman, Ling Ling (located on the 56th floor, it has the best views Mexico has to offer)

Would highly advocate Roma Norte as the area to stay in, would feel so peaceful to head back and to chill in one of the many amazing cafes or restaurants surrounding it. Centro Historico is the central place to stay in if one wants to be in the center of all sightseeing.

Xochimilco :

The best day of my entire holiday, went in the morning and wanted to go again at sunset for the evening vibes some day but could not

Around 45 minutes from city center this is the Venice of Mexico, but OMG so much more fun. The colorful trajineras, must hire your own with table and chairs, it’s not expensive, a typical ride is for an hour. People selling Margarita, corn, other food from floating trajineras. floating, live musicians who will jump into your boat to serenade you. It’s perfectly fine to carry your own alcohol, snacks and music, or can be bought from some shops just before the entry as well.

Teotihuacan Pyramids :

An hour away from Mexico city and a world heritage site. Early morning hot air ballooning can be done here as well. It’s 3 main monuments are Temple of Quetzalcoatl and the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon. Teotihuacan was home to several civilizations, including the Toltecs, Totonacs, Mayans, and Zapotecs. The people who inhabited Teotihuacan had a written language, but researchers have yet to decode it. If any of the sculptures sold by the roadside vendors catch your fancy just buy it, I thought would get better ones in the city but seems they make it in this region and the best ones are found here. They are pretty pricy, some bargaining can be done.

Best time to go is in the morning and end it with lunch at the cave restaurant La Gruta, it seemingly gets its aesthetics naturally, sun comes in through the upper reaches of the cave, rest of the cave is lit up by real candles not fake electric ones. End of the meal the waiter comes with a candle, explains the story behind the cave and invites the guest to light the candle and place it.

Would love to discover more of Mexico, the possibility of that is not high though, it’s around 24 hours away from India even by shortest flying route. Had a few people remark that it’s a long way to travel for a holiday. I feel it’s worth all the flying hours, will remember & savor all the beautiful moments spent.

Make beautiful memories for yourself, whose ownership lies with you and no one can neither take it away or mar it in any way…. Sapna Rateria

Kashi ? Benaras ? Varanasi ?

admin — Sat, 29 Oct 2022 05:42:08 +0000

For a city that’s supposed to be older than history it’s kind of obvious that through time people know it by various names. As Mark Twain said…Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together. Supposedly the oldest city in the world, with time it got a lot of names, what remained constant is the extreme character of the city, scholars with knowledge of the ancient scriptures at one end of the spectrum and free ( not that evident any more ) use of bhang and charas ( local drugs ) at the other. My guide asked if I would want to have any as I was super enthusiastic to do all that Varanasi had to offer, this I politely declined as having either would mean getting knocked off for at least 8 hours, what a waste, on a short tight trip.

Spiritual capital of India and home of Hinduism from last 3000 years Varanasi has been the center of learning over decades. One of the oldest universities, BHU university was founded here in 1916. The campus is huge with clean lanes lined with trees.

I have an old connect with Benares ( It will always be that in my mind ) it’s where a lot of my holidays have been spent, it is my mama badi( uncle’s house ) My memories of Benares is a laid back town where everyone has a lot of time on hand. The Varanasi I visited now was bustling, ready to burst on it’s seams and however much the current government may be trying to regularize and beautify the city they have a herculean task on hand. Would be great if they could work on the air quality as well. Even though I was coming from a crowded city like Mumbai the air pollution was tough to handle.

Along with a lot of history and religious beliefs, it’s also where most cremations would take place. It’s believed that if one is cremated in Varanasi, and their ashes are immersed into the sacred water of the Ganges, their reincarnation cycle will end and they will attain Nirvana. For any tourist visiting Varanasi this aspect of life and death can’t be overlooked. Earlier and probably even now widows were banished to Varanasi, forsaken by society, they would either beg on the roads or turn to the oldest profession on earth. Experiences is what the city is all about, not just tourism. It’s like watching a movie which is stark and real, away from all pretense and glamour.

Temples :

Vishwanath Temple : Its in the campus of BHU, has the tallest temple tower in the world at around 250 feet. Worth visiting to roam around BHU, soak in the quiet which defies the chaos just outside.

Durga Kund Temple : Also known as monkey temple ( obviously named as it has loads of monkeys ) The statue here is supposed to have appeared on its own and is not man made . Most of the walls are red signifying Mata Durga. There is a pond to the right side of the temple with steps all around. Mata Durga is known to be the protector of the city of Varanasi.

Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple : Of the 2 most visited temple of Varanasi, Sankat Mochan is one, sankat mochan means to relive problems. Located at Assi ghat the temple dates back to the time of Goswami Tulsidas – a Hindu Vaishnava saint and poet. It’s said to be the place where Tulsidas saw Lord Hanuman and wrote Ramcharitmanas . It’s most crowded on Tuesday and Saturday, the days of Lord Hanuman. Red peda ( sweet ) is offered to the God here and relished by locals. It’s sold in the shops outside. Statutory warning, its over sweet and maybe not suitable to all palates. My mother is an ardent devotee of Lord Hanuman, on my annual visits to Banaras mom would often drag me here for blessings from Lord Hanuman. This is one place which I had faint memories of and looked probably unchanged.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple : The main temple visited by all who travel to Varanasi. The temple stands on the western bank of the holy river Ganga, and is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, it’s known as the holiest of Shiva temples. The main deity is known by the name Vishvanatha or Vishveshvara meaning Ruler of The Universe. Varanasi city is also called Kashi, and hence the temple is popularly called Kashi Vishvanath Temple.

It has seen major renovation and streamlining of facilities. Everything starting with darshan to abhishek can be booked online. The morning aarti gets sold out a couple of weeks in advance as it has only 150 slots. I had pre booked the Rudra Abhishek and found the process smooth, go to the booking office, show the confirmation, immediately a pandit is assigned who carries with him all what would be required for the Abhishek (offering) Inside there are separate queues for those having a paid ticket and those who opt for free darshan. The priests don’t permit more than a few seconds once you reach the main shivling, to want a really good darshan keep calm and hold firm, after all even with the paid ticket the lines are long, a few seconds to connect with HIm is not too much to ask for. There are three domes each made up of pure gold, donated by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1835. Lower portions and door frames are now being converted to gold, it’s said 23 kgs of gold have already been used and the process is still on. All houses behind the temple have been broken down to ensure a clear path from the Ganga to the temple, plans are on to enable access to the temple by boat as well as road. No phones, electronics, digital watches, big handbags are allowed inside, lockers are provided at the booking office to keep all valuables.

Fun pondering : Since Varanasi has a lot of presence of Lord Shiva what exactly is Shivling ? Some say it’s the private parts of Shiva and Parvati others opine it’s the symbol for the creation of the universe through the combination of the active energy of Lord Shiva and his Shakti. The symbolism of the lingam also represents the base of the spine, meaning the Muladhara chakra, upon which the kundalini is resting, waiting for awakening.

Book tickets for Kaashi Vishwanath : https://shrikashivishwanath.org/

Other temples to visit : Kaal Bhairav, Tulsi Manas, Maa Annapurna…and quite a few more.

Experiences :

Boat ride on the river Ganges, there are total 88 ghats ( banks ) and a ride along the ghats will give you an almost complete picture of Varanasi without having to be part of the chaos Varanasi is. You can carry a snack along to munch as the city unfolds, with every ghat having significance. Taking a guide will make it informative and interesting. At the ghats most common sights are people taking a dip in the holy water to wash away their sins, and cremations. Most cremations are done at Manikarnika ghat. Ganga aarti is conducted every evening at sunset at Dashwamedh Ghat.

Morning Ganga Aarti is at Assi ghat, time for Aarti varies as it’s performed at sunrise. Advisable to reach a little early to get a place to sit closer to where the Aarti is performed. Total of 9 priests are assigned for it, 8 dressed identical, one in the center is the head priest and dressed differently. The priests chosen to do this important ritual is by virtue of their knowledge, not lineage ( and probably arm strength as the aartis looked too heavy to lift, leave alone perform with it as they did effortlessly ) By virtue of having lived his entire life in Varanasi and having a lot of contacts my cousin managed to get me first row seats and the honor of lighting up one of the Aarti. The experience was surreal, even now just watching the video gives me goosebumps. After the aarti there are women selling small bowls of flowers and a candle to float in the water and make a wish, it’s an old tradition. Toss aside skepticism, float one, close your eyes and wish, who knows when the Gods will say Amen. Time permitting stay back for Subah e Benaras which happens after the Aarti at Assi Ghat, flow of program is, chanting of shlokas by the students of a local school, a havan which all can watch and participate, yoga class free for all.

Note : Look out for the most delicious tea possible, its served in small paper cups, made of local spices topped with lemon juice and herbal tea.

Sundowner at either Brij Rama or Guleria Kothi, they are both on the banks of Ganga, old palaces converted into hotels. Prior reservation is recommended. Guleria Kothi@Ganges(A Boutique Heritage Hotel) Landline : +91-0542-2406666/7 Mobile : +91-7991919101/2. BrijRama Palace Varanasi +919129414141.

Note: No alcohol is served near the Ganga, sundowner would not mean a glass of beer or wine.

Heritage walks : Can be booked at banarasculturalfoundation

Food : Due to the religious vibes of the city non vegetarian food and alcohol is served only in places slightly away form the holy river. Though most places have food suitable to the Indian palate with the influx of tourists across the globe there are enough places for them to enjoy a meal as well.

Kashi chat Bhandar and Deena chat bhandar for chat. Ram Bhandar for the best kachoris, their alu chana kachori gets sold out by 10:30. Blue Lassi near Kashi Vishwanath temple, Lakshmi Chai for signature chai, served in earthen cups. Smell and flavor of the baked earthen cups is part of the allure, team it with Banarasi malai toast ( Vegans would cringe to see the malai ( cream ) topping which is thicker than the toast ) or with butter loaded toast. Pizzeria Cafe for a view of the river and thin crisp pizzas and apple pies. Aum Cafe for healthy juices, herbal teas, super tired ? A massage is also available here. Craving for breads not paratha ? Brown Bread Bakery, they have vegan food as well. Malai ki roti is the to die for local sweet for, 2 layers of very thin malai and stuffing of pista….. devine. Ram Bhandar is a good place to buy this from. Memories of this delicacy will last forever on the taste buds. When in Varanasi end your meal like the locals, with paan from Keshav.

Shopping : Known for it’s beautiful silks and intricate weaving a saree bought here was passed down though generations. As treasured as a piece of jewelry. Back then real gold and silver were used as threads and woven intricately, those sarees if anyone is fortunate enough to have inherited apart from antique value it has same value as silver and gold. After decades It will still shines as if made just yesterday. All found on the streets now are machine made. Select shops have the authentic weaves but those also are obviously not gold or silver weaves any more. Thatheri bazar is full of shops selling all kinds of bright clothes and artifact, its a kaleidoscope of colors, rioting through the visual senses. Cars are not permitted here, only e-rickshaws.

Around Varanasi :

Sarnath : Just 10 kms and half an hour away, one of the holiest Buddhist sites, It’s known as the place where Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon, beautifully maintained it reflects the peace which just seeing a deity of Buddha evokes. For 1,700 years it was a center of pilgrimage and learning, and a place where monks stayed.. Beware of guides who may charge you less but will try to make you shop from locals to earn a commission.

Ramnagar Fort : The 17th century home of the Maharaja of Varanasi, it’s now a museum, housing vintage cars costumes and weapons. Personally was disappointed as we took almost an hour to reach here due to crazy traffic (to travel 1 km in city center Varanasi may take you 20 minutes ) and all the exhibits were in shambles, coated with dust. They charge Rs 75 as entry fee, the least they can do is keep the place dust free. Redeeming factor, it houses a temple dedicated to Daxina Murty bhagwan and also Ved Vyas, the author of the Mahabharata. The only temple dedicated to him in India. Overlooking this temple is the peaceful Ganga. Sunset from here would be spectacular.

Stay : Topmost would be Brij Rama and Guleria Kothi, they are on the banks of Ganga and charge a premium for the location. Palaces converted to hotels they have a charm which regular hotels won’t have. Taj, Radisson, Clark are the other regular ones. There are smaller accommodations by the river but I can’t vouch for any. After the hectic trip I opted to stay the last night at Tree of Life which is 10 minutes away from airport, and half an hour away from city center of Varanasi. It has only 18 suites, a lovely garden and pool. Was the perfect way to unwind and end the hectic trip over a glass of wine. Morning was bliss with birds chirping and beautiful exotic trees surrounding the 650 square feet esthetically done up room.

My observation of Varanasi would be is that it’s the chaotic version of Venice, connected beautifully by boats but they don’t ply when the river rises and that cripples the city silently.

Phuket

Sapna Rateria — Tue, 14 Jun 2022 05:53:44 +0000

It’s been so long since I last travelled that was about to grow roots. I mean by now any place would seem like heaven. So maybe my enthusiasm for Phuket can be colored by desperation. Covid situation currently better there was less trepidation this time than the last vacation. Hope all remains well as the world is certainly too vast to be spent in one city/country.

Thailand being a short flight away from India have visited a couple of times earlier as well. This time was different as wanted to explore and store more information to share on my blog. End of the trip, what I felt was there is so much more than what I did do on this trip, need to go again.

Phuket = fun, pure unadulterated fun, the to go place to relax or party. It’s the biggest Island of Thailand and has easy access by boat to Krabi and Phi Phi

City Tour: Embarking on the tour ensure that shoulders and legs are covered as many places don’t permit entry if the dress is inappropriate. Shawls/ Stoles can be bought outside the monuments, just in case in the enthusiasm to head out rules are forgotten. Though sightseeing is not the main attraction, for the die hard tourists there are a few places that can be visited.

Old Town: All Instagram fanatics must visit. It’s just a couple of roads with quaint cafes, pretty looking shops ( nothing which can really be bought ) I mean the pretty part of it gets over so fast, but it’s super cute. Not sure about food but for desserts John donuts ( was sold out, did not get any ) and Torry’s Ice cream are brilliant. It would be one of the best ice creams every had. Be brave, try their different combinations.

Wat Chlong temple : It’s peaceful and has 2 main sanctuaries, Saw a few locals who were shaking a box of sticks till one fell out. Curious when I asked around, this is what the folklore says…the stick that falls out tells your future, there are printed sheets corresponding to the color of the stick and the number written on it, match it and your future is revealed, unfortunately it’s in Thai so google translate assistance will also be required. It’s a fun thing to do.

Big Buddha : On a mountain it can be seen from afar. It’s majestic and needs some climbing after the car park. On the way to the Big Buddha before reaching there are some viewing points which sell some drinks and snacks. Visit Big Buddha just before sunset and stop at the viewing points on the way back for breathtaking sunset views.

Karon viewpoint: Was kind of disappointed as there was not much to it, better views were on the way to Big Buddha. There are a few rooftop bars which would be a better option than the view point.

James Bond Island : Best to take a speed boat tour, avoid the long tail one as it’s time consuming. They include hotel pick up and have some complimentary snacks at the boarding point. Typical itinerary is cruise around Phang Nga Bay. Take pictures of Koh Panak Island on way, stop at Hong Island for sea canoeing tour. ( make sure to choose this option as it’s great fun ) following stop will be at an island with unusual rock formations, limestone caves and hidden lagoons. Next is the star island Khao Ping Gan (Leaning Rock), or “James Bond Island “. Lunch is included in the tour price and I expected it to be quite bad but was served at a very pretty island village Ko Panyi and the views made up for lack of palatable vegetarian food. Finish lunch fast to walk around the village, there is a school there which has a floating football ground. Final stop is at Naka Noi island. The stop is for an hour to swim and enjoy on the beach, or try activities such as Jet Skiing or banana boating. There are snacks and drinks that can be bought here. Mainland is around 20 minutes away. It’s a full day tour and hectic, but fun.

Beaches in the north are peaceful and some may say boring, south beaches have the buzz which people would visit Thailand for. Massages on the beach, water sports, so much shopping, restaurants, cafes, a vibe so lively and infectious.

Mai Khao beach : It’s in the north and quite secluded, only recommended if aim is to rediscover oneself. It’s clean as hardly any vendors are there.

Surin beach : It’s white sand beach which is less crowded than Patong, if have have loads of time can visit else Patong works best every time.

Karon beach : 4 kms long and less touristy than Patong which also translates to less expensive, it’s a decent option in case travelling with family and on a budget. Has good resorts at lesser prices.

Patong beach : THIS is the one to go to, even while writing since it’s so fresh in my mind I can feel the energy, the buzz is electrifying. It’s like your personal genie, whatever you want you get. And open till probably 7AM. I personally feel the essence of Phuket is captured here. Lots of resorts around, staying options are many, and stay cost is highest here. ( Baring Laguna of course )

Summary of beaches : Naithon, Nai Yang, Mai Khao ( Quiet beaches on the North ) Kamala, Bangtoa, Surin ( Semi quiet beached in the center ) Kata, Karon, Patong ( Buzzing beaches in the south )

Laguna : It’s got 7 high end luxury hotels, golf courses, spas, boutique shopping, fancy spas, canoeing, sailing. Situated on Bangtao beach it’s in a world of its own. Highly recommended for all who want a luxurious vacation.

Splash water park : Quite run down and not worth spending time and money.

FantaSea : They really need to revamp the show as well as all props for spectators to come out happy. Avoidable in it’s current state.

NIghtlife : USP of most cities of Thailand and Phuket doesn’t disappoint. Bangla road for all who want to party all night. At sunset it transforms itself every evening from a sleepy lane to a energetic buzzing locale. Not to be visited with children or parents. There is an unapologetic openness to the vibrancy making it fun rather than sleazy. I personally anyways feel sleaze is more in the mind. A good place to go is Red hot club, it’s open to the road and you can soak in all happening outside as well, it’s like being at 2 places at the same time. I LOVED Illuzion, the DJ’s there are beyond fantastic, visited on Monday and could barely get place to stand. I want to go back some time and see what happens on a weekend. It’s in a building but hard to miss as they have lighted staircase leading up to it. While heading back to the hotel could hear Bollywood playing from somewhere, which means hunt a bit and get all kinds of music that you want.

Michelin star restaurants : PRU @ Trisara, Raya for homely food. Blue Elephant, what a fabulous place, recommended by our driver and we thanked him plenty for it. It’s Michelin star in an old mansion with sprawling lawns. If you don’t know about it you can’t just discover it. A vegetarian getting good food in Thailand is unheard of but yes it happened. They serve non vegetarian food as well obviously. Want to learn how to cook what has been served ? Enroll for their cooking classes. Too lazy ? Just buy their array of sauces and food all hand crafted to be taken back home.

Fun, romantic, picture perfect places to dine in ( Not very sure about how the food tastes though, being a vegetarian in a non vegetarian city ) : There are so many that I discovered, probably would be so many more which someone else can unearth and update on the blog. Catch beach club ( On Bangtao beach, lunch here would also be good ) Cafe Del Mar ( Kamala beach for sundowners and Ibiza vibes) ) Blue beach cafe and restaurant ( This honestly was chanced upon, but what a superb find, right on the beach and serving superb cocktails, want to go back )

Rooftop places with great views : Wassa ( Patong, pocket friendly ) The surface ( Patong ) Sundeck ( Karon view point ) Heaven Rooftop ( Karon view point ) Vanilla Sky ( Kamala ) Kee Sky Lounge ( Patong ) Andaman Sky Lounge ( Patong ) 360 degrees ( In hotel Pavilions, banana beach )

Street food : Along with fancy places to dine in some suggestions for street food. Pad Thai Noodles, Pancakes, Tom Yum. ( Spice levels are high ) Thiland has the best fruits in the world, loads of fruits, not to forget raw mangoes. A disclaimer, being a staunch vegetarian for the best food to be had, maybe should be hunted as a separate search online.

Shopping : Plenty of roadside shopping at Patong, Central, the mall was closed but a lot of small shops have sprung up just outside. Naka night market for fun shopping, its local stuff and fake bags etc, on weekends a live band plays and just to hang around would be fun. Old town has night market on weekends. Patong has shops open till midnight.

Getting around : There are small vans called tuk tuks, available everywhere and at all times, a little negotiating on rates is totally acceptable. They have flat charges to be discussed before alighting. Many of them have fun flashy disco lights, the party continues till drop at the hotel .

Massages : Last but most important, it’s everywhere and the best thing to do in Thailand. Don’t sleep without getting one done every single day. Would prefer the foot massage to the body massage. Can be done in the open part of the parlor and feels safer, in terms of hygiene as well.

Tips : Carry loads of waterproof sunscreen, a waterproof backpack, 2-3 pairs of sunglasses for variation in pictures. A small water bottle to keep filling water where you can ( save the world, refuse plastic bottles ) Waterproof foldable shopping bag. A book to read. Lots of hair conditioner, so much of dunking hair in water, they cry for nourishment. Lots of swimwear, sarong ( maybe get one that can double up as a towel ) It’s cash friendly economy, most places charge 3% to swipe credit cards, carry enough cash.

Create moments to cherish as memories later. #sapnarateria

Andaman & Nicobar Islands

Sapna Rateria — Tue, 02 Nov 2021 12:29:03 +0000

Emerald, Blue and You

Though it’s known as Andaman & Nicobar Islands tourists mostly visit Andaman. It’s home to Sentinelese tribe, who are hostile to any human interaction and known to kill anyone who approaches them. Exact number of this tribe is not know, it’s guessed at 50 to 100. This is not the ideal way to start talking about why this Union Territory should be visited I guess, but the unknown always fascinates. There are a lot of Bengalis in Andaman, from 1949, government officials promoted relocating to the Andamans impoverished Bengali camp dwellers, numbers have grown and they now form a majority.

The only airport is at Port Blair, known as Veer Savarkar International airport, with limited flights, its a small entry point to the most beautiful waters India has. An overnight halt at Port Blair is recommended both while arriving and departing to take a ferry to Neil Island or Havelock whichever Island has caught your fancy. There are 3 main ferries : Government, Makruzz, Green Ocean. Makruzz though is the fancier one it does not have any place where you can stand in the open deck to enjoy the ocean. Ideal months to visit is October to April after the monsoon is over and it’s not peak summer. Water enthusiasts will love this UT, all those who want water as blue at Seychelles or Maldives but don’t want to sell their kidney for a vacation here is where you must head to. Not just the water, sand here looks and feels like talcum powder. Nature gives it’s bounty to all and this place has not exploited and commercialized it. There are mostly small hotels with room inventory of around 40 to 50 which get sold out six months in advance. Few luxury hotels but many perfectly located comfortable ones. Try to get a hotel which is on the beach or at least beach facing, there are plenty of them. Not much sightseeing but lots of water sports.

Port Blair : Capital city, lovely clean broad roads and (in) famous for it’s cellular jail, also known as Kala Pani. Visiting here it’s difficult to imagine such surroundings which look serene now was earlier a hotbed of pain, suppression and torture. The jail is ingeniously designed in a way where the back of one block faces the front of another. It’s like the spokes of a wheel. So well designed, unwilling, but I was admiring the architect. Capital punishments were given in the open to serve as a lesson for the rest of the prisoners. Best to visit here just an hour before the sound and light show so both a tour and the show can be done at one go, should take a guide as they explain well and make the place come alive. Sound and light show is well made, narrated in English and Hindi, if you have language preference best to check timing beforehand. Another place at Port Blair that can be visited is Rajiv Gandhi water sports complex, it has parasailing, speed boats, banana boats, and more. All of which are available in Havelock and Neil as well, can given a miss here. There are many places that can be visited around, Ross and Smith Island, Little Andaman Island, Parrot Island, Chidiya Tapu, Karmatang beach. These are all to be visited if you have earmarked 4-5 days at least for Port Blair.

Havelock : Most people would love to cut the chase and just reach here, all good things though have to be persevered and earned. As you reach first views of the lovely aqua blue water takes your breath away, it’s certainly different from the same sea from where you started at Port Blair. The jetty has small hotels and cafes, shops selling souvenirs and lots of happy buzz around it, the air is contagious with energy and good vibes. Lots of taxis freely available to reach you to your hotel. This jetty is also used to take people to Elephant beach.

Beaches in Havelock are known by numbers as well as names. The most frequented and lovely is Radhanagar beach. It has been ranked as the best beach of India and the 7th best beach in the world by the Time Magazine. Radhanagar is for sunsets and Kalapathar is for sunrises. Elephant beach is all about water sports. There are small shacks near all the beaches which sell water, juices and snacks. From Havelock there was a road on which one could trek to Elephant beach, that is closed now and speedboat is required to reach. Cost of speedboat and all water sports are regulated by unions, there is no negotiating or variables.

Scuba : There are 26 PADI dive shops from certification can be done, minimum 3 full days are required for that, for a fun open water dive 1 day is also enough. Best time for diving is October to May.

Snorkeling : Total fun, but don’t get taken in by the snorkeling trips that are near the shore. For best marine life take a snorkeling tour which takes you by boat to the good sites.

Kayaking : Mangrove kayaking, sunset kayaking or night kayaking ??? Tough choice. Night kayaking is one of the most magical experiences, head head out into the sea just after sunset and paddle over an ocean that glows and sparkles with bio luminescence. The blue-tinted glow underwater is the cause of specific phytoplankton, that moves inside the water, and glows at night. There are specific points in Andaman where they are visible and Havelock‌ Island’s mangrove forest is one of the best places to see it. With each paddle, the sea is lit up like stars. The trip is for 3 hours.

Good places to have a meal : Something different ( they send a vehicle, if you book in advance ) Bonova café and pub, By the way, Anju Coco, The swimming elephant, Flavours (veg )

Neil Island : An hour and half away from both Havelock and Port Blair Neil island is for those who want a quiet getaway, secluded beaches and me time. Ideal for honeymooners.

Inspired by Ramayana beaches here are named Bharatpur, Sitapur and Laxmanpur and not to forget the beach which has the natural bridge.

Just half a kilometre from the jetty is Bharatpur, gentle blue waters that can lure non swimmers into it’s folds. Water sports can be done from this beach, they have glass bottom boats as well. There are shops around selling basic food and coconut water. A proper meal can be had at Kiran restaurant nearby, not fancy but nice and fresh food.

Laxmanpur beach is know for sunsets and Sitapur for sunrises. Since was there for just a day somehow did not manage to catch both. Loved Sitapur beach though, totally virgin, soft powdered sand and aqua blue water.

To reach the natural bridge a flight of steps needs to be crossed, at the end is a beach which is full of hard dead corals. On the beach small pools of water can be seen trapped in natural crevices and exotic fish can be spotted swimming in them, a school of fish can be lured out of hiding by Parle G biscuits. Different kinds of sea cucumber can also be spotted. Just to the left is the natural bridge, nature has patiently made this over thousands of years, formed it from rocks and dead corals. Guides are available to explain and educate. I am a big fan of guides, I think without them we are just scratching the surface of a place not really experiencing it. Comfortable shoes and not beach slippers are recommended for this place. In case footwear worn is not appropriate last shop after the stairs end has some apt sandals which can be borrowed at no cost. They do expect that some snacks or drinks be bought from then in exchange.

There are small hotels, comfortable but not too fancy for those who opt to spend a night or a few nights. I felt just doing just one island either Havelock or Neil is good no need to actually island hop.

Sunscreen and exotic swimwear are the only 2 things necessary to visit here. A fun companion would perhaps be a cherry on the cake.