Sapna Rateria – Cirrus Travels & Holidays

Georgia…The cradle of wine

Sapna Rateria — Mon, 06 Nov 2023 09:19:56 +0000

Thank to Indigo starting a direct flight from India and visas not required for Indians travelling to Georgia if holding a valid UK, USA and Schengen visa, this holiday was fast planned and faster executed. Not to do with the destination, traveling on Indigo on a longish flight is either punishing oneself or desperation to explore more of the world.

Technically Asia but located between Europe and Asia, a tiny country, former Soviet republic. Home to Caucasus Mountain villages and Black Sea beaches. Birth place of Wine, here you sip history while you explore it. Archeologists have found 8000 years old fragments of Kvevri or clay jar which was used to make wine in Tbilisi. Home to some of the oldest and most authentically made wines. A lot of it is exported but the best ones are kept for local consumption. Perfect way to discover these are to visit the local vineyards and restaurants.

Beautiful and bestowed with natures blessings it’s a compact package. Getting around by public transportation between cities may be tough but the private tours are affordable and luxurious. An escorted one in a branded car would cost less that what a do it yourself holiday would cost in Europe.

History, nature’s bounty, updated infrastructure, hiking, trekking would be the top reasons to explore Georgia. Super luxury stays probably not.

Caveat : However much research I do before travelling, and whatever I share through my experiences would be such a tiny fraction of what can be done. I personally find blogs so helpful and read a lot of them to plan my travel. I want to do my bit in the quest of making someone’s memories better.

Trivia :

Half a day to explore the historical neighborhood of Tbilisi, Metekhi, Sioni and Anchiskhati would be good. Start by going to Narikala fortress by cable car, admire the Mother of Georgia statue which is visible from afar as well. From Narikala walk down to Sulfur bath district constructed in the XVII- XVIII centuries under influence of Islamic architectural style. The district is also called as “Abanotubani” where several, hot sulfur springs immerged. On way visit the waterfall near botanical garden. Stop at Meidan Bazar for souvenirs before continuing to Chardin Street, famous pedestrian area with international cafes, small shops and the Gabriadze Puppet Theater with the clock tower. It’s pretty cobbled pedestrian streets with no vehicles allowed and lined with cafes & pubs, continue to the main avenue of Shota Rustaveli (constructed in the XIX century) with the theatres, Museums, art galleries and Parliament building. Out of the many historical churches, a must visit would be The Holy Trinity Cathedral.

Lanes of Tbilisi

Modern structure to see : President Palace, the Justice house, Bridge of peace.

Mtatsminda Amusement Park : Perched on a mountain with great views of the city. Good to head here at sunset even if travelling without children. There is no entry fee to the park only for the rides. Great place if travelling with children. Keep expectations in check it’s not Disneyworld.

Giant wheel at the park

Mtatsminda Amusement Park

Hot Sulfur baths : Legend says the hot sulfur water is what made King Vakhtang to build a city around it. From what was basic baths then it has evolved to private ones now with colorful domes, decorative tiles and private rooms. Most are located in Abanotubani, very central. These are bathhouses primarily and not Spas, not sure how good their spa treatment would be. Public ones are cheap but would mean disrobing in front of strangers. They are gender separated. The private ones you can rent a bath depending on the number of people. Family & friends can share the room. Kisi ( scrub ) is charged additional and can be paid directly to the Mekisi. (scrubber) Tipping is optional.

Towels, scrubs etc all have to be bought at nominal charges. Idea is to hop in the hot bath and then take a cold shower alternately. Finish off with a scrub by a Mekisi. Keep hydrated and don’t stay too long in the Sulphur water as it can draining. The best bath in my opinion is Chreli-Abano.

Mtskheta & nearby : An hour and half from Tbilisi is the former capital of Georgia. Mtskheta is UNESCO heritage site located at the crossing of two rivers and the ancient trade routes. Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta is the splendid architectural monument and the first Christian church in Georgia. It is the burial site of Georgian monarchs of Bagrationi dynasty. Jesus Christ’s robe is believed to be buried inside as well. Outside there are many shops selling trinkets & souvenirs, cheaper than elsewhere. Also sold here are home made wines in plastic bottles, which can be tasted before buying. The pomegranate ones are really good.

On the way back visit Jvari Monastery, a sixth century Orthodox monastery. On a hill over lookin the Mtkvari and the Aragvi rivers. Not only the Monastery but the views are incredible also.

Chronicle of Georgia : Massive structures of bronze, copper and stone, commissioned in 1985 and looks complete now, however there is no entrance fee and most people don’t know about it. Its good for some Instagrammable pictures. The main monument has 16 pillars each one sculptured. Behind the pillars is a small chapel with great views. Can be covered along with Mtskheta.

Bioli wellness resort : 15 kms from Tbilisi is this wellness resort, located 1200 meters above sea level. With zero pollution and green hills as far as your eyes can see its a wonderful place to relax. It is envisioned as a place to stay for improving overall health or maybe a specific health issue. Breakfast is only served from 10AM. Food options are not many but what they do serve is brilliant to taste and a visual delight. Reminded me of master chef dishes where every ingredient is blended together thoughtfully. No swimming pool and apart from beautiful walks and cycling around not that much to do. Loved staying here. The cottages are small with glass on all sides bringing in the nature inside, gives a sense of staying in a luxurious tree house. Armed with books or whatever brings about personal Zen space, stay here can be extended to a week, only for those who are comfortable with themselves and don’t want constant activity. The resort offers free health consultation for all guests, it’s a short one where the consultant doctor by the help of a machine tells the mineral, metal & stress levels in the body.

Cycling at Bioli

Tsalka Canyon : Earlier know as Dashbashi Canyon, Tsalka is a deep mountain gorge around 2 hours from Tbilisi. I loved this place the best in Georgia. An architect’s dream probably, a 240 meter long transparent bridge with a diamond shaped transparent bar suspended in the middle. It’s supposed to be the world’s largest hanging structure. Whoever thought of this one had great imagination and risk taking appetite to invest so much in the middle of nowhere. Can go berserk clicking pictures, all guaranteed Insta worthy. Highlight is the biking zip line, super scary to look at but so safe and so much fun. Was 100% sure I want to do this, then the driver scared me a bit…he was like errr, it is a bit extreme. Trust me it was not.

Minor thrills after the major one ? Try the cliff swing, which actually is quite tame after the adrenaline rush from the zipline cycling. Tickets being sold by people around is slightly cheaper than buying at their counter. Can buy a combo of both activities also. Trek lovers can walk down a 1800 meter long path from the Visitor Center to the canyon. The hike down to the waterfall is paved.

The hanging bar serves only coffee & drinks. There is a restaurant near the visitor’s center with views of the diamond bar for lunch & dinner. Could spot cottages around for staying as well. Not sure how good they are.

Kakheti / Sighnaghi Kakheti is the most visited wine region in Georgia, because of it’s proximity to Tbilisi many tourists visit it, hence it’s popularity.

Sighnaghi ( City of Love ) a town in Kakheti is around 2 hours from Tbilisi. Although it is one of Georgia’s smallest towns, It’s so pretty and quaint, can opt to stay here for a night, it’s at the heart of Georgia’s wine-growing region, has picturesque landscapes, pastel houses with wooden fretwork balconies, and narrow, cobblestone streets. It’s know as the city of love as many come here to say their wows or to reiterate them. It has a wedding house where one can marry anytime of the day. Could spot fun lovers riding quad bikes around the town.

There are various number of wineries in Kakheti as the region is very developed as a wine producing area, as per preference any one of the many wineries may be chosen to visit and tour. I visited Winery Khareba, they had some great wines as part of the tasting tour, temptation to pick up many was there. The realization that packing it with clothes may be a risky affair curbed the desire to some extent. Wine cellars are in tunnels that are very cold, blankets are given as part of the tour. They have a baking class also which is a waste of time and money. Would advise to skip that.

Bodbe Nunnery : A small chapel surrounded by beautiful gardens. Just 10 minutes from Sighnaghi. It is built on the burial place of Saint Nino, a 4th century female saint, who converted many Georgians to Christianity. Besides it’s historical significance it has been repaired and restored many times and is very beautiful.

Kazbegi : Around 3 and half hours from Tbilisi and barely 12 kms from Russian border it is the third-highest peak in Georgia, and the seventh-highest summit in the Caucasus Mountains. A must visit for mountain lovers and trekkers. The trek up to Gergeti Trinity church (2170 M) is not challenging and would be fun to do if staying there overnight. 4X4 vehicles can carry non trekkers right up, there are horses also available. Spotted an exciting long zipline as well, sadly had no time to try that. Visiting in summer would be best as there are not much foliage around for this region to be picturesque in Autumn, in winter trekking would not be possible. Kazbegi can be avoided if mountains don’t excite, its a long drive for a day trip. There is a hotel there called The Rooms. Seemed like a good one, was buzzing with tourists, read somewhere that without reservation it’s tough to get a table for lunch.

Kazbegi

On the way to Kazbegi can make a pit stop at Ananuri and Zhinvali Reservoir. The dam was built in 1986. Water is a perfect blue color and surrounded by mountains. Faintly resembling the Fjords of Norway. Ananuri fortress is a sixteenth-century castle complex on the Aragvi River. The fortress stands beside the famous Georgian Military Highway, overlooking the large Zhinvali lake. The main church façade is beautifully carved with animal, floral and Celtic style patterns. There are a few shops selling souvenirs as well as snacks and food. Photo ops have been created which can be used for a small fee.

Zinvali reservoir & lake

Some tips 1) Download bolt app for taxis, hailing a cab will cost 10 times more. 2) If you want to party ensure you are in Tbilisi on Friday & Saturday night, all good clubs are closed other days of the week. 3) Vegetarians will get only 2 local food to eat apart from fruits. Kachapuri : A flat bread filled with cheese or potato Lobia : Red beans served as a curry or stuffed in bread. Maybe advisable to carry some food.

Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur, India

Sapna Rateria — Fri, 28 Jul 2023 10:22:41 +0000

This one is all about fan girl memories, Lake Palace was not my first choice for this vacation, a long holiday weekend with sky high airfares is what fated me here. Having stayed in a few other palace turned hotels I did not expect to be awed by this one.

One of the most photographed hotels in the world., guess there would be reasons for that.

Taj ensures this hotel is exclusive. Guests who are not staying here can’t come for just a meal or a drink. In the midst of lake Pichola, surrounded by Aravalli mountains the only way to reach here is by their own boat which has to be taken from their own exclusive jetty.

It was built in 1746 by Maharana Jagat Singh II, handed over to Taj in 1971 to be run as a hotel. Custodians to the heritage and not only the palace, they have surpassed their responsibility to preserve the traditions, everyone working here makes guest feel like royalty, pampered to the hilt. Not a single artifact, painting or carved ornate pillar has been changed. Rooms have been added seamlessly.

I guess the enthusiasm starts with the boatman who entertains with stories of the Palace and Udaipur. It’s a short ride to the Palace from the jetty but the momentum is built up.

Trivia :

Udaipur has never been ruled by Mughals or British and the current king Maharaja Arvind Singh still owns a lot of property in Udaipur. Fateh Prakash and Lake Palace are owned by him and given on lease to Taj.

A spoilt pampered Indian, the arrival was not as grand as I expected, escorted under the royal umbrella to the reception with rose petals been showered , hmmmm the rose petals were too few and just for the records.

I had requested for a room near the reception as had a fractured ankle, the room I got was as close as possible with one wall which was a full window with a view of the lake and mountains. I thought I would not be able to tear myself away from this view but luckily better sense prevailed , I mean it is a Palace on an island which is actually just 4 acres so most places would have this stunning view. Tip: book a room with lake view.

Lake palace is not just about the beautiful lake and the surrounding mountain but also about the architecture, pure white marble, and at some places colorful glass from around the wall etched on the pillars adding color to the pristine white surrounding. A Lily pool, minus the lilies now is at the center of the Palace, where breakfast can be served. Trees and flowers all grown and placed perfectly. The antique paintings and intricately carved artifacts are placed so casually, I am sure each must be worth a mini fortune. It’s history preserved and shared.

After visual senses pampered to the hilt and guests want more, there is a open lounge where board games can be enjoyed, or maybe just spend hours reading and soaking in the ambience. A swimming pool which has a heart shaped tree shading it lovingly. A bar which has some special drinks which are borderline healthy ( maybe I am just trying to feel less guilty but that’s what they claim ) They have a multi cuisine restaurant, many of the tables here face the lake.

Evenings can be packed or at leisure, live musical and local dance performances, a tour of the palace, a boat ride on the lake with the boatman doubling up as a guide. If there is no private buyout the boat stops at Jag Mandir, it’s a small island with a café and gardens, Jag Mandir is let out for events and celebrations and is owned by the current Maharaja. Superbly maintained and with lots of photo ops. Don’t want to do any of these ? Just relax by the indoor courtyard of Lake Palace which has a flutist playing soothing notes every evening for an hour. The same flutist has been doing this from last 22 years.

Visuals sorted, entertainment taken care of, next it’s pampering probably the way mothers can. For me probably more so cause of my broken ankle. The restaurant manager noticing the injury had turmeric milk ready for me when I went for breakfast, will help bones heal better he advised with a knowing smile. A gentle look and helping hand were offered every time I needed to navigate a few steps. Initially not wanting to take help as wanted to be self reliant, at some point I gave up, I mean back in Mumbai no one would be indulging me.

Don’t know how they do it but every time I would enter the room there would be a different sweet placed on the table. All my books had new bookmarks placed inside.

I had not planned to blog this time as have written about Palace hotels and about Udaipur but this is about appreciating the wonderful heritage we have & which is being preserved so well. Its on a holiday like this that I feel so proud to be an Indian and can on borderline arrogance say no other country can match up to this hospitality and subtle grandeur.

Norway in a nutshell

Sapna Rateria — Wed, 26 Jul 2023 11:39:08 +0000

Before travelling to Norway I read a lot of blogs on the country, the names and details intimidated me. I was like wow, so much to see and so confusing, I had 8 days and clueless how to pack all in. My blog aims to help people plan their trip in a nutshell. This is also what the beautiful scenic journey From Bergen to Oslo or vice versa is called, more about that later.

This year I had promised to myself an international run, world majors runs being difficult to get entry to, ( I need to work on my pace ) I thought if not a word major it has to be the most scenic one. The obvious choice was the Tromsø midnight run. Dreaming of my personal best I tripped on a practice run ( thank you Government of India for roads where every run is filled with adventure) In a cast with the doctor advising no runs for next 3 months I was determined to salvage what I could. Used the booked tickets and turned this into a holiday to Norway. Intention was to probably hobble with the runners and feel the vibe, hope not to feel too left out. A zillion plans now, very different from the original one.

Tromsø :

The city with the midnight sun. I landed at 10PM and the sun was as bright as if it was 12 noon. Tromsø airport is quite small, with glass all around, did I land in the mountains and not an airport ?????

From the airport to reach the city there are taxis easily available and airport shuttle The Flybussen. The city at close to 11 PM was awake, pubs open, people on the roads, I guess all using the days & nights of light to the utmost . To stay in Norway any of the Thon hotels are good, well located, well priced and with a good breakfast spread to start the day. With most of Tromsø on an island all can be covered by walking or by cycles which can easily be rented. The city does not have a separate cycling lane though. Or else a bus pass, all major cities of Norway have bus passes which make exploring the city very reasonable and convenient. PS : It’s fun to just sit at any of the cafes on the harbor and enjoy the views.

Things to do :

Midnight sun cruise : Take a pick from the various ones offered but MUST do any one. Starts at 10 PM and ends earliest at 1AM. Could not stop clicking pictures of the sky, frustrated as nothing that I clicked could capture the actual hues. It gets very chilly on the boat, do carry all the woolens that may be needed to stay up on the decks. Hot chocolate & cookies are part of all cruises.

Artic Cathedral & Fjellstua : Tromsdalen Church, also known as Ishavskatedralen (The Arctic Cathedral) can be viewed from afar. Visible from the Tromsø Sound, the Tromsø Bridge and when landing in Tromsø. A glass and mosaic structure, simple and impressive.

Walkable from there is the Fjellstua cable car which goes from Solliveien in Tromsdalen up to Storsteinen, 421 meters above sea level, in just four minutes. It has a restaurant which serves some basics, would recommend to carry some food and have a picnic on the mountains. Enough flat spaces to enjoy a meal with the spectacular views all around. Do check timing of cable car to plan well.

Prestvannet & Telegrafbukta : Prestvannet is a small lake in central tromso, can skip if short of time, around 5 kms from there is Telegrafbukta, a lovely beach surrounded by mountains and water. Peaceful with picnic tables and amazing views. There is no food sold here, best to carry some. Was shivering with my jacket in June and wondering how the locals were happily sun bathing in swimwear. Don’t expect too much sand, its more greenery and mountains.

Magic Ice bar : This one I spotted in Bergen as well, I guess they have it in all major cities of Norway. Everything inside is made of ice including the chairs, tables, glasses they serve drinks in. Temperature is maintained at -5. A fun thing to to do, I lasted 15 minutes inside the bar. Had to finish my drink outside the bar. They allow that. Max people last here is 45 minutes as confessed by the bartender. Fun trivia : Canadians last the most.

Midnight run : HAVE to talk about this, they have all categories starting from 4 kms up to 42 kms. Start time for the full is 8:30 PM and the rest are all later. Guess motive is to be on a run at midnight. They don’t expect Kipchoge here

Its full carnival feel with a toddlers run as well, it’s so cute to see babies with running bibs as big as they are. Running in any direction they want, clueless about the finish line.

Stalls selling food, people having wine on the roads, fun and laughter all around. Ignoring doctor’s advice and my saner self I did a 8km run just to get a feel of the vibes. I was ecstatic at the end, requested for a not earned medal as a souvenir which I was shamelessly wearing.

Bergen :

From the airport to city center taxis and The Fybussen is easily available. Known as the capital of fjords and surrounded by 7 mountains, its rainy most days of the year. Postcards of Bergen mostly depict colorful wooden buildings on the wharf just by the main harbor. Only 58 or 62 of them are left now, converted to shops selling souvenirs.

Bryggen would be the central area to stay in. The harbor, pedestrian walking area in the shopping district, monument of sailor, park with fountains, station all would be walkable. The park at Bergenhus has a lovely fountain and a café selling fresh breads and coffee. A bus pass would be the cheapest and best way to get around. Bergen is ideal for activities such as hiking, cycling or kayaking. Happy thing to do : Having Ice cream from the shops at Bryygen sitting by the harbor. Enjoying the buzz of activity, from ships and tourists.

Things to do :

Fjord tour : Obviously, this is synonymous with Bergen. A must for the region’s jaw dropping landscapes. Try to reach early and board at the earliest to get a good spot on the deck. It would be a shame to sit inside. Most of the tours sell wine & beers along with some snacks. Weather can change any time in Bergen, advisable to have a rain proof jacket handy always. As for the cruise itself, It’s impossible to describe the experience, won’t even try.

Ulriken or Mount Floyen : For views of the city. Ulriken has a higher mountain feel and is outside the city, can take the cable car or hike up. Mount Floyen is from city center and can go by funicular or hike up. Take a pick, would not recommend to do both as its similar experience. For better views Ulriken, with children Mount Floyen. Ulriken has a restaurant called Skyskraperen at the top which is highly rated. Did not feel it warranted so much attention. Good but not amazing.

Norway in a Nutshell : Highlight of the trip, the spectacular journey starting from Bergen and ending at Oslo. Bergen to Voss is a train which I found was the the least spectacular part of the journey, even so try to get a seat on the left side of the train for better views. Seamlessly connects to a bus journey to Gudvangen. This part is mind blowing good. The bus stops at Stalheim as a photo stop as well as for all who want to break the journey. The journey can be broken up at every point. Activities on the way can also be added. From Gudvangen its a cruise in the fjords up to Flam. Try to travel as light as possible. Luggage has to be taken care personally.

Flam has a few good places to stay, also works as a great mid point to break journey instead of continuing on to Oslo making the day hectic.

If willing to experiment would highly recommend staying at Flam campsite. They have all kinds of rooms including a dormitory. Complete with a community kitchen, they have all equipment to cook a full meal. Take Maggie noodles at least to to cook. I was most excited about this stay and it did not disappoint. Children would love to run around the vast gardens. It’s a road away from the station and ferry terminal. Enough restaurants and cafes around. Nothing to do though except cycle around. Cycles can be rented easily. Just breathe in the clean mountain air. Total detox.

From Flam to Oslo is a 6 hour journey by train. The first part is a short 50 minute ride on the breathtaking Flam railway, looked like an ancient train with commentary on the route, they have a picture stop at a magnificent waterfall at Myrdal. The final train was from Myrdal to Oslo, a journey which was the last part but not the least part. Has a cafeteria as well as a family car for adults with toddlers. This section was totally padded up to ensure falling babies don’t get hurt. It went too fast, wine and views…. memories made forever.

Flekkefjord : A picturesque town located in southern Norway, known for stunning fjord landscape. While there can take a ferry to Hidra, a small island known for it’s rugged coastline and hiking trails. They have an interesting unique concept of rail biking. Safe for people with small children also, covering 17 tunnels and having several stops, recommended to carry some food along and head lamps.

Oslo :

Capital of Norway and I was expecting a big city ( not a fan of big cities)

Maybe its just cause of the area I was in, what I found was a lovely compact city full of greenery, cobbled roads, roadside cafes, music all around. I LOVED it. Must stay in any hotel near Karl Johan’s gate. Every activity would be in a radius of 2 kms. Karl Johan hotel is a good one. A bus pass to get around is really not needed as everything is walkable. 70% of Norway is greenery. Pretty impressive. Norway also ranks high in the index of happiest countries of the world.

Things to do :

List down all monuments and museums and google map them and walk around. They are all close by. Only Vigeland Park having sculptures is at some distance. Or take a walking tour, the guide will know exactly how to do all with least amount of walking. Guides also know a lot of stories & history which make the city interesting.

Take an Island hopping tour or just buy tickets at the dockyard and do it yourself, its pretty simple, only advantage of taking a tour is again, the guide will have some interesting tales about each island.

Shop at the shops at Karl Johan gate or just relax after a hectic holiday and soak in the vibes.

Note :

Norway has excellent hiking, biking, trekking, fishing & boating experiences from all cities and towns. There will never be any place which does not give opportunities for the active traveler. This is probably a simplified, touristy version of all that can be done in Norway, hope it helps.

Mexico

Sapna Rateria — Mon, 19 Dec 2022 12:01:02 +0000

A world of it’s own :

Writing this blog with a prayer of thanks to the Universe for giving us such a wonderful world, and to the Almighty for giving me the means and opportunity to explore and experience a small part of it. On a somber note please do your bit for sustainable tourism, don’t waste food and resources, try to use public transport, carry your own bags and water bottles. If the recent pandemic has not opened our eyes to the threat the world is facing then what will ? This is the first country I got to add after 3 years to my list of countries visited, surely sobered me down

I am so overwhelmed by the sheer magnitude of Mexico, history, beaches, culture, shopping, museums, pubs, restaurants it’s all whatever anyone would want X 100. This blog is scratching the surface of what Mexico has on offer. A few tips are what I had researched and did not have the time to experience myself, hope it’s useful and relevant.

Most tourists head to the Mexican part of the Yucatan peninsula. Yucatan, Quintana Roo and Campeche. The high end all inclusive resorts are mostly found in Cancun, Tulum and Playa del Carmen. ( Quintana Roo ) They are all good, brochure perfect with infinity pools. Ensure to take one that has its own beach, most of them do. I stayed at The fives hotels & residences which offers an all inclusive plan. Taking an all inclusive comes with pros and cons….Pros : its non stop party, indulge 24 hours of the day with food, entertainment, drinks. Cons: control is difficult and a few stones get added to the weight for sure.

Merida the capital of Yucatán state is my favorite place to go in Mexico. It’s way bigger than I thought, which was initially disappointing as was looking forward to a quaint town which was actually a city. Fortunately it had all the vibes of a town rather than a city. Campeche has the magnificent Mayan ruins. If one is short of time just visiting this peninsula could be an appetizer till one could come back for more. Ubers are available in most places.

Cancun, Tulum, Playa del Carmen :

Known for its luxury resorts, many just come here for their dose of Vitamin Sea and not step out at all. Which is a pity as there is much to do around. Chichen Itza, Cenotes, Tulum to name a few.

Tulum :

An hour and 15 minutes away from Playa Del Carmen located on the coastline is Tulum archeological site. The only ancient city overlooking the Caribbean sea and on the top of a hill. The walk to the site as well as when looking around is in full sun with very little shade. Carry water, hats and shades. Built in the 13h-century, one of the last cities built and inhabited by the Maya. Because of its proximity to the sea a lot of trade happened here. It flourished between the 13th and 15th centuries. By the 16th century it was abandoned. The beauty of this coastal city can be well imagined, it’s lush with greenery and a short walk up the cliff to see the coast is highly recommended. Iguanas can be seen in abundance, big lizards which look cute and harmless, absolutely fascinating.

After being in the sun so long most tours in the Yucatan region end with a dip in a cenote, (a natural pit, or sinkhole resulting from the collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes cool water) I visited the gran cenote after Tulum, it was good, turquoise crystal clear water, small fish, caves with bats, decent toilets and a cute open air shower, the entry price includes life jackets. I feel there would be better ones around. It’s mandatory to take a shower before entering any cenote in order to preserve its ecosystem. Carry a swim suit, quick dry towel and swim shoes, go pro and snorkels would be a value add. At the gran cenote they don’t have much food to sell but if carrying food they have gardens where it would be fun to picnic. Want to make it a little more fun ? Visit an adventure park they feature cenotes, ziplines, lagoons, snorkeling, canoes, cliff jumps and more. Lunch break options from Tulum : La Coqueta (7kms) El Milagrito (7kms) Posada Margarita (6kms)

From Quintana Roo ( Cancun, Tulum or Playa del Carmen ) to Chichen Itza it approx 2 and half hours, instead to going back it’s better to go ahead to Merida, approx 5 hours by road, start early maximize the day by visiting some places along the way. Quintana Roo to Valladoid (2hrs) Chichen Itza (45 minutes) Merida (2 hrs) The ambitious can fit in a cenote as well.

Valladolid :

A small town untouched by tourism. Explore San Servacio Church, walk on Calzada de los, the most instagrammable street, take a picture with the Valladolid sign. Have lunch at Conato Cultural 1910, incredible presentation, ambience & flavors. Gelato at Wabi , swim in nearby cenotes Suytun (for pictures, not necessarily to swim) Zaci (in the middle of town) San Lorenzo Oxman (has a rope swing) Saamal (artificial waterfall and lunch buffet)

Chichen Itza :

One of the new wonders of the world, the main 3 buildings are Pyramid of Kukulkan, Temple of Warriors, Great Ball Court. Said to be named after a cenote nearby. Those days fresh water was scarce and the cenote is said to have played a major part in prominence of this place, where hundreds of Mayans are said to come every day for work and trade. It’s said this city also had suburbs, built around 400-600 AD it met its end around 12th -15th century. A collection of events may have caused that, draughts, arrival of Spanish, weather conditions. Was eventually discovered in 1841.

Interesting facts :

The main pyramid nest smaller pyramids inside similar to Russian dolls. It acts as a calendar, 365 steps, 91 on each side and 1 on top. Each side representing a season. Monuments were astronomically aligned, the round-shaped observatory, El Caracol, which was used to gauge the positions of planets and the sun.

The pyramid was designed in a way that the sun forms a shadow of a serpent twice a year. 21st of March and 21st of September. Head of the serpent is sculpted at the base of the pyramid and on those days when the sun goes down for a few minutes it looks as if the serpent is descending. Gives goose bumps to think how the people would have felt thinking their God is descending. Even now on these dates people flock to see the phenomenon. A couple of days earlier and later also this can be seen with lesser crowds.

Great ball court, the largest ball court in America where the difficult but seemingly harmless game of Pok Ta Pok was played. Teams of 2 or 4 had to keep a ball weighing up to 4 kgs off the ground and pass it through a vertical hoop in the center of the court. They could use only 1 side of their body, hips, knees, elbows and heads. That side was protected by shields. At the end of the game 1 person would be sacrificed. Logic would say from the losing team, but it’s said it would be from the winning team as a sacrifice has to be of the best person. I would just play badly to stay alive but it’s said from birth it’s ingrained that it’s an honor to be sacrificed and all would play to win.

Merida :

Known to be one of the safest cities in America including USA, this says a lot as Mexico is in(famous) for crime. Stay at Montejo street or Plaza Grande and within a radius of 5 kms all that a tourist will want would be covered. Anyone who likes walking will not have to Uber at all.

Plaza Grande :

Walking tour Monday to Saturday from Palacio Municipal in Plaza Grande around 9:15 AM, it’s free, tips are expected. San Ildefonso Cathedral one of the oldest in America. A picture with the Merida sign and the U & I chairs, these funny looking chairs are supposed to have been created by a protective father, so that his daughter and her suitor don’t sit next to each other. Shop at Centro for dream catchers if they fascinate you, best ones are found in Merida, or anything hand crafted that catch fancy, just buy, most of the times they are prettier than what Mexico city has to offer.

Every evening at the Plaza there are some events happening which are free. Recreation of the game Pok Ta pok happens every Saturday at 8PM.

Stroll at Paseo de Montejo street, starts from a park called El Remate and ends at Monumento a la Patria. A 3.2 kms long street, trees lining all the way, free wifi on the road. Plenty of places to stop on the way for a drink, the prettiest Starbucks I have seen.

Monumento a la Patria is magnificent during the day and even more at night when it’s lit up. It has over 300 hand carved figures. Brunch at Rosas & Xocolate Boutique Hotel. Saturday evenings and Sunday morning this street turns into a cycling zone. Cycles can be rented for as low as Rs 200, a huge variety of them, tandem, with a child seat, with baskets, could spot a dozen variations. Don’t want to cycle ? Take a fun carriage ride.

Southern end of Paseo Montejo to Calle 47 (47th Street) is the Restaurant Row.

Other things to do :

Photograph the Hotel Casa Azul, you would spot in while walking down the restaurant street. It’s blue and striking. Munch on nuts and sweets sold by roadside vendors. Take a Photo on the Big Chairs in Parque Santa Lucia, it’s got lively music in the evenings and restaurants. Dinner & Live Music at Mercado 60. Both theses are almost next to each other. Dine at Casa Maya, Centro it has fun ambience with swings and local vibes. Other good dining options, Catrin, Oliva Enoteca, Amado by the beer box. Want to make it an outing for lunch ? Drive down to Hacienda Teya around 10 kms from Merida.

Uxmal :

An hour away from Merida, I found these ruins or archeological site more fascinating than Chichen Itza, it was more organized from a tourist’s perspective. It’s a UNESCO world heritage site. I could imagine people living in harmony and there were such peaceful vibes. Dating to 700 AD it’s said to have 25000 inhabitants. It maybe lost it’s importance around 1200, no new buildings could be seen made after that.

Main Pyramid at the entry is Pyramid of the Soothsayer. Huge with lots of motifs and sculptures depicting Chaac, the God of rain.

A short climb up is the Governor’s house, calm peaceful and from here the view of the site is incredible.

The name Uxmal comes from the word Oxmal, which means built 3 times. Suggesting that there has been many alterations before it got its appearance as we see today. Unlike Chichen Itza, Uxmal had people living there. Natural water storage can been seen still. Sculptures of serpents seem to dominate both the sites.

Hacienda Mucuyche : Hacienda means a large estate with a house. After every sightseeing in this region it makes total sense to end it with a cenote. After the heat a refreshing swim in cool clean natural pools would definitely be a unique experience doable only in Yucatan. For that reason and some more after Uxmal unquestionably go to Hacienda Mucuyche which is around 45 minutes from Uxmal . Prior reservation is mandatory, make sure to book an English tour as they have Spanish ones as well. A 3 PM one is recommended giving enough time to enjoy lunch and a tour of the estate before plunging into the cool waters. Here approximate time given to enjoy the cenote is an hour, it’s a guided swim with someone explaining the phenomenon and being around all the time. As earlier carry swim suit, quick dry towels, and swim shoes. Go Pro and snorkels if possible. This was a far better one than the Gran cenote, proper steps leading to the waters, there were 2 cenotes named Carlota and Mayan Blue.

Discovered just 10 years back when the latest owner sent some scuba divers to explore a well on the estate. Open to public merely 3 years back it already has a lot of tourists visiting it. Life jackets are provided and is mandatory to wear. The cenote is absolutely stunning and deep. It’s like being surrounded by crystals. Sparkling stalactites and stalagmites all around, Lights are put strategically to make it seem ethereal. There is a swimming pool at the estate to chill at after or before the cenote. A restaurant which serves local food and drinks.

Mexico City :

All the stories about it being unsafe were luckily only stories for me. I found it safe and as vibrant as New York. Personally even better than New York. Only downside could be traffic, takes ages to travel even 1 km. Most big cities I advocate taking a hop on bus, it’s fun and covers all tourist points at one’s own pace. Travelling with kids ? Check out Bosque de Chapultepec, it’s a 1,600 acre park, the green lung of a buzzling city.

Coyoacan :

A a great area for local shopping, must visit Parroquia San Juan Bautista a gorgeous church there. Google for the closest artisian market here or anywhere else in the city for bright colorful Mexican souvenirs.

Lucha Libre :

Another name for freestyle wrestling where the contestants wear masks, the loser is supposed to lose his mask permanently. Though it’s know to be staged it’s still good fun, originating from Mexico this sport can now been seen in other parts of USA as well. Would recommend VIP seats with food included, the food is nothing to write home about but the experience is great. Happens every Tuesday, Friday & Saturday. Tickets can be bought online, mostly available on site as well.

Top bars :

The cocktails had here would be the best I’ve had in any city, got introduced to Mezcal and now hunt for it in Mumbai as well. Cocktails curated in Mexico city I found were low on sugar and high on flavors, and very easy on the pocket. Licoreria Liantour (recommended drink, Mango Pina) La Calandestina (my personal favorite place for the best artisanal Mezcals & salsa) Tiecan Mezcalaria (good vibes & bar nibbles) La Zaranda (cute curbside place with good cocktails) Handshake (did not get space as did not have reservation, it’s a hidden bar with no visible signage) Xaman, Ling Ling (located on the 56th floor, it has the best views Mexico has to offer)

Would highly advocate Roma Norte as the area to stay in, would feel so peaceful to head back and to chill in one of the many amazing cafes or restaurants surrounding it. Centro Historico is the central place to stay in if one wants to be in the center of all sightseeing.

Xochimilco :

The best day of my entire holiday, went in the morning and wanted to go again at sunset for the evening vibes some day but could not

Around 45 minutes from city center this is the Venice of Mexico, but OMG so much more fun. The colorful trajineras, must hire your own with table and chairs, it’s not expensive, a typical ride is for an hour. People selling Margarita, corn, other food from floating trajineras. floating, live musicians who will jump into your boat to serenade you. It’s perfectly fine to carry your own alcohol, snacks and music, or can be bought from some shops just before the entry as well.

Teotihuacan Pyramids :

An hour away from Mexico city and a world heritage site. Early morning hot air ballooning can be done here as well. It’s 3 main monuments are Temple of Quetzalcoatl and the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon. Teotihuacan was home to several civilizations, including the Toltecs, Totonacs, Mayans, and Zapotecs. The people who inhabited Teotihuacan had a written language, but researchers have yet to decode it. If any of the sculptures sold by the roadside vendors catch your fancy just buy it, I thought would get better ones in the city but seems they make it in this region and the best ones are found here. They are pretty pricy, some bargaining can be done.

Best time to go is in the morning and end it with lunch at the cave restaurant La Gruta, it seemingly gets its aesthetics naturally, sun comes in through the upper reaches of the cave, rest of the cave is lit up by real candles not fake electric ones. End of the meal the waiter comes with a candle, explains the story behind the cave and invites the guest to light the candle and place it.

Would love to discover more of Mexico, the possibility of that is not high though, it’s around 24 hours away from India even by shortest flying route. Had a few people remark that it’s a long way to travel for a holiday. I feel it’s worth all the flying hours, will remember & savor all the beautiful moments spent.

Make beautiful memories for yourself, whose ownership lies with you and no one can neither take it away or mar it in any way…. Sapna Rateria

Phuket

Sapna Rateria — Tue, 14 Jun 2022 05:53:44 +0000

It’s been so long since I last travelled that was about to grow roots. I mean by now any place would seem like heaven. So maybe my enthusiasm for Phuket can be colored by desperation. Covid situation currently better there was less trepidation this time than the last vacation. Hope all remains well as the world is certainly too vast to be spent in one city/country.

Thailand being a short flight away from India have visited a couple of times earlier as well. This time was different as wanted to explore and store more information to share on my blog. End of the trip, what I felt was there is so much more than what I did do on this trip, need to go again.

Phuket = fun, pure unadulterated fun, the to go place to relax or party. It’s the biggest Island of Thailand and has easy access by boat to Krabi and Phi Phi

City Tour: Embarking on the tour ensure that shoulders and legs are covered as many places don’t permit entry if the dress is inappropriate. Shawls/ Stoles can be bought outside the monuments, just in case in the enthusiasm to head out rules are forgotten. Though sightseeing is not the main attraction, for the die hard tourists there are a few places that can be visited.

Old Town: All Instagram fanatics must visit. It’s just a couple of roads with quaint cafes, pretty looking shops ( nothing which can really be bought ) I mean the pretty part of it gets over so fast, but it’s super cute. Not sure about food but for desserts John donuts ( was sold out, did not get any ) and Torry’s Ice cream are brilliant. It would be one of the best ice creams every had. Be brave, try their different combinations.

Wat Chlong temple : It’s peaceful and has 2 main sanctuaries, Saw a few locals who were shaking a box of sticks till one fell out. Curious when I asked around, this is what the folklore says…the stick that falls out tells your future, there are printed sheets corresponding to the color of the stick and the number written on it, match it and your future is revealed, unfortunately it’s in Thai so google translate assistance will also be required. It’s a fun thing to do.

Big Buddha : On a mountain it can be seen from afar. It’s majestic and needs some climbing after the car park. On the way to the Big Buddha before reaching there are some viewing points which sell some drinks and snacks. Visit Big Buddha just before sunset and stop at the viewing points on the way back for breathtaking sunset views.

Karon viewpoint: Was kind of disappointed as there was not much to it, better views were on the way to Big Buddha. There are a few rooftop bars which would be a better option than the view point.

James Bond Island : Best to take a speed boat tour, avoid the long tail one as it’s time consuming. They include hotel pick up and have some complimentary snacks at the boarding point. Typical itinerary is cruise around Phang Nga Bay. Take pictures of Koh Panak Island on way, stop at Hong Island for sea canoeing tour. ( make sure to choose this option as it’s great fun ) following stop will be at an island with unusual rock formations, limestone caves and hidden lagoons. Next is the star island Khao Ping Gan (Leaning Rock), or “James Bond Island “. Lunch is included in the tour price and I expected it to be quite bad but was served at a very pretty island village Ko Panyi and the views made up for lack of palatable vegetarian food. Finish lunch fast to walk around the village, there is a school there which has a floating football ground. Final stop is at Naka Noi island. The stop is for an hour to swim and enjoy on the beach, or try activities such as Jet Skiing or banana boating. There are snacks and drinks that can be bought here. Mainland is around 20 minutes away. It’s a full day tour and hectic, but fun.

Beaches in the north are peaceful and some may say boring, south beaches have the buzz which people would visit Thailand for. Massages on the beach, water sports, so much shopping, restaurants, cafes, a vibe so lively and infectious.

Mai Khao beach : It’s in the north and quite secluded, only recommended if aim is to rediscover oneself. It’s clean as hardly any vendors are there.

Surin beach : It’s white sand beach which is less crowded than Patong, if have have loads of time can visit else Patong works best every time.

Karon beach : 4 kms long and less touristy than Patong which also translates to less expensive, it’s a decent option in case travelling with family and on a budget. Has good resorts at lesser prices.

Patong beach : THIS is the one to go to, even while writing since it’s so fresh in my mind I can feel the energy, the buzz is electrifying. It’s like your personal genie, whatever you want you get. And open till probably 7AM. I personally feel the essence of Phuket is captured here. Lots of resorts around, staying options are many, and stay cost is highest here. ( Baring Laguna of course )

Summary of beaches : Naithon, Nai Yang, Mai Khao ( Quiet beaches on the North ) Kamala, Bangtoa, Surin ( Semi quiet beached in the center ) Kata, Karon, Patong ( Buzzing beaches in the south )

Laguna : It’s got 7 high end luxury hotels, golf courses, spas, boutique shopping, fancy spas, canoeing, sailing. Situated on Bangtao beach it’s in a world of its own. Highly recommended for all who want a luxurious vacation.

Splash water park : Quite run down and not worth spending time and money.

FantaSea : They really need to revamp the show as well as all props for spectators to come out happy. Avoidable in it’s current state.

NIghtlife : USP of most cities of Thailand and Phuket doesn’t disappoint. Bangla road for all who want to party all night. At sunset it transforms itself every evening from a sleepy lane to a energetic buzzing locale. Not to be visited with children or parents. There is an unapologetic openness to the vibrancy making it fun rather than sleazy. I personally anyways feel sleaze is more in the mind. A good place to go is Red hot club, it’s open to the road and you can soak in all happening outside as well, it’s like being at 2 places at the same time. I LOVED Illuzion, the DJ’s there are beyond fantastic, visited on Monday and could barely get place to stand. I want to go back some time and see what happens on a weekend. It’s in a building but hard to miss as they have lighted staircase leading up to it. While heading back to the hotel could hear Bollywood playing from somewhere, which means hunt a bit and get all kinds of music that you want.

Michelin star restaurants : PRU @ Trisara, Raya for homely food. Blue Elephant, what a fabulous place, recommended by our driver and we thanked him plenty for it. It’s Michelin star in an old mansion with sprawling lawns. If you don’t know about it you can’t just discover it. A vegetarian getting good food in Thailand is unheard of but yes it happened. They serve non vegetarian food as well obviously. Want to learn how to cook what has been served ? Enroll for their cooking classes. Too lazy ? Just buy their array of sauces and food all hand crafted to be taken back home.

Fun, romantic, picture perfect places to dine in ( Not very sure about how the food tastes though, being a vegetarian in a non vegetarian city ) : There are so many that I discovered, probably would be so many more which someone else can unearth and update on the blog. Catch beach club ( On Bangtao beach, lunch here would also be good ) Cafe Del Mar ( Kamala beach for sundowners and Ibiza vibes) ) Blue beach cafe and restaurant ( This honestly was chanced upon, but what a superb find, right on the beach and serving superb cocktails, want to go back )

Rooftop places with great views : Wassa ( Patong, pocket friendly ) The surface ( Patong ) Sundeck ( Karon view point ) Heaven Rooftop ( Karon view point ) Vanilla Sky ( Kamala ) Kee Sky Lounge ( Patong ) Andaman Sky Lounge ( Patong ) 360 degrees ( In hotel Pavilions, banana beach )

Street food : Along with fancy places to dine in some suggestions for street food. Pad Thai Noodles, Pancakes, Tom Yum. ( Spice levels are high ) Thiland has the best fruits in the world, loads of fruits, not to forget raw mangoes. A disclaimer, being a staunch vegetarian for the best food to be had, maybe should be hunted as a separate search online.

Shopping : Plenty of roadside shopping at Patong, Central, the mall was closed but a lot of small shops have sprung up just outside. Naka night market for fun shopping, its local stuff and fake bags etc, on weekends a live band plays and just to hang around would be fun. Old town has night market on weekends. Patong has shops open till midnight.

Getting around : There are small vans called tuk tuks, available everywhere and at all times, a little negotiating on rates is totally acceptable. They have flat charges to be discussed before alighting. Many of them have fun flashy disco lights, the party continues till drop at the hotel .

Massages : Last but most important, it’s everywhere and the best thing to do in Thailand. Don’t sleep without getting one done every single day. Would prefer the foot massage to the body massage. Can be done in the open part of the parlor and feels safer, in terms of hygiene as well.

Tips : Carry loads of waterproof sunscreen, a waterproof backpack, 2-3 pairs of sunglasses for variation in pictures. A small water bottle to keep filling water where you can ( save the world, refuse plastic bottles ) Waterproof foldable shopping bag. A book to read. Lots of hair conditioner, so much of dunking hair in water, they cry for nourishment. Lots of swimwear, sarong ( maybe get one that can double up as a towel ) It’s cash friendly economy, most places charge 3% to swipe credit cards, carry enough cash.

Create moments to cherish as memories later. #sapnarateria

Andaman & Nicobar Islands

Sapna Rateria — Tue, 02 Nov 2021 12:29:03 +0000

Emerald, Blue and You

Though it’s known as Andaman & Nicobar Islands tourists mostly visit Andaman. It’s home to Sentinelese tribe, who are hostile to any human interaction and known to kill anyone who approaches them. Exact number of this tribe is not know, it’s guessed at 50 to 100. This is not the ideal way to start talking about why this Union Territory should be visited I guess, but the unknown always fascinates. There are a lot of Bengalis in Andaman, from 1949, government officials promoted relocating to the Andamans impoverished Bengali camp dwellers, numbers have grown and they now form a majority.

The only airport is at Port Blair, known as Veer Savarkar International airport, with limited flights, its a small entry point to the most beautiful waters India has. An overnight halt at Port Blair is recommended both while arriving and departing to take a ferry to Neil Island or Havelock whichever Island has caught your fancy. There are 3 main ferries : Government, Makruzz, Green Ocean. Makruzz though is the fancier one it does not have any place where you can stand in the open deck to enjoy the ocean. Ideal months to visit is October to April after the monsoon is over and it’s not peak summer. Water enthusiasts will love this UT, all those who want water as blue at Seychelles or Maldives but don’t want to sell their kidney for a vacation here is where you must head to. Not just the water, sand here looks and feels like talcum powder. Nature gives it’s bounty to all and this place has not exploited and commercialized it. There are mostly small hotels with room inventory of around 40 to 50 which get sold out six months in advance. Few luxury hotels but many perfectly located comfortable ones. Try to get a hotel which is on the beach or at least beach facing, there are plenty of them. Not much sightseeing but lots of water sports.

Port Blair : Capital city, lovely clean broad roads and (in) famous for it’s cellular jail, also known as Kala Pani. Visiting here it’s difficult to imagine such surroundings which look serene now was earlier a hotbed of pain, suppression and torture. The jail is ingeniously designed in a way where the back of one block faces the front of another. It’s like the spokes of a wheel. So well designed, unwilling, but I was admiring the architect. Capital punishments were given in the open to serve as a lesson for the rest of the prisoners. Best to visit here just an hour before the sound and light show so both a tour and the show can be done at one go, should take a guide as they explain well and make the place come alive. Sound and light show is well made, narrated in English and Hindi, if you have language preference best to check timing beforehand. Another place at Port Blair that can be visited is Rajiv Gandhi water sports complex, it has parasailing, speed boats, banana boats, and more. All of which are available in Havelock and Neil as well, can given a miss here. There are many places that can be visited around, Ross and Smith Island, Little Andaman Island, Parrot Island, Chidiya Tapu, Karmatang beach. These are all to be visited if you have earmarked 4-5 days at least for Port Blair.

Havelock : Most people would love to cut the chase and just reach here, all good things though have to be persevered and earned. As you reach first views of the lovely aqua blue water takes your breath away, it’s certainly different from the same sea from where you started at Port Blair. The jetty has small hotels and cafes, shops selling souvenirs and lots of happy buzz around it, the air is contagious with energy and good vibes. Lots of taxis freely available to reach you to your hotel. This jetty is also used to take people to Elephant beach.

Beaches in Havelock are known by numbers as well as names. The most frequented and lovely is Radhanagar beach. It has been ranked as the best beach of India and the 7th best beach in the world by the Time Magazine. Radhanagar is for sunsets and Kalapathar is for sunrises. Elephant beach is all about water sports. There are small shacks near all the beaches which sell water, juices and snacks. From Havelock there was a road on which one could trek to Elephant beach, that is closed now and speedboat is required to reach. Cost of speedboat and all water sports are regulated by unions, there is no negotiating or variables.

Scuba : There are 26 PADI dive shops from certification can be done, minimum 3 full days are required for that, for a fun open water dive 1 day is also enough. Best time for diving is October to May.

Snorkeling : Total fun, but don’t get taken in by the snorkeling trips that are near the shore. For best marine life take a snorkeling tour which takes you by boat to the good sites.

Kayaking : Mangrove kayaking, sunset kayaking or night kayaking ??? Tough choice. Night kayaking is one of the most magical experiences, head head out into the sea just after sunset and paddle over an ocean that glows and sparkles with bio luminescence. The blue-tinted glow underwater is the cause of specific phytoplankton, that moves inside the water, and glows at night. There are specific points in Andaman where they are visible and Havelock‌ Island’s mangrove forest is one of the best places to see it. With each paddle, the sea is lit up like stars. The trip is for 3 hours.

Good places to have a meal : Something different ( they send a vehicle, if you book in advance ) Bonova café and pub, By the way, Anju Coco, The swimming elephant, Flavours (veg )

Neil Island : An hour and half away from both Havelock and Port Blair Neil island is for those who want a quiet getaway, secluded beaches and me time. Ideal for honeymooners.

Inspired by Ramayana beaches here are named Bharatpur, Sitapur and Laxmanpur and not to forget the beach which has the natural bridge.

Just half a kilometre from the jetty is Bharatpur, gentle blue waters that can lure non swimmers into it’s folds. Water sports can be done from this beach, they have glass bottom boats as well. There are shops around selling basic food and coconut water. A proper meal can be had at Kiran restaurant nearby, not fancy but nice and fresh food.

Laxmanpur beach is know for sunsets and Sitapur for sunrises. Since was there for just a day somehow did not manage to catch both. Loved Sitapur beach though, totally virgin, soft powdered sand and aqua blue water.

To reach the natural bridge a flight of steps needs to be crossed, at the end is a beach which is full of hard dead corals. On the beach small pools of water can be seen trapped in natural crevices and exotic fish can be spotted swimming in them, a school of fish can be lured out of hiding by Parle G biscuits. Different kinds of sea cucumber can also be spotted. Just to the left is the natural bridge, nature has patiently made this over thousands of years, formed it from rocks and dead corals. Guides are available to explain and educate. I am a big fan of guides, I think without them we are just scratching the surface of a place not really experiencing it. Comfortable shoes and not beach slippers are recommended for this place. In case footwear worn is not appropriate last shop after the stairs end has some apt sandals which can be borrowed at no cost. They do expect that some snacks or drinks be bought from then in exchange.

There are small hotels, comfortable but not too fancy for those who opt to spend a night or a few nights. I felt just doing just one island either Havelock or Neil is good no need to actually island hop.

Sunscreen and exotic swimwear are the only 2 things necessary to visit here. A fun companion would perhaps be a cherry on the cake.

Ladakh

Sapna Rateria — Fri, 17 Sep 2021 04:44:24 +0000

This title is so apt as it has Khardung La pass at 17,582 feet, Chang La pass at 17,586 feet and Kela pass which is yet to open for general public at 18,600 feet. These are some of the highest motorable roads in the world.

While driving through Ladakh what comes to mind is barren and beautiful, there is hardly any vegetation on the mountains as there is very little rainfall in the region. The rivers get their water from the glaciers. The sky is bluer than anywhere else in the world. At night you can see zillions of stars so close that they shine like fairy bulbs. In the span of an hour I could actually see 4 shooting stars, I ran out of wishes to make.

Ladakh is mainly made up of 2 districts Kargil and Leh. Sightseeing is mostly monasteries, all of them give a sense of peace and have a lot of history. Ladakh is more for experiences than for sightseeing. To fill your senses with the vastness of the mountains, the blue skies, the turquoise Pangong Lake, the chilled gurgling streams. All around monks and monasteries can be seen, giving a sense of peace. Military presence brings us back to reality, close to both China and Pakistan goodwill cannot be taken for granted.

Whatever activity…. trekking, cycling, biking all can be accomplished here. Excitement seekers can do paragliding, zip lining, rafting.

There are a few luxury hotels for those who want to have a chilled out vacation rather than the active one I had. In the literal sense as well as it’s cold most of the year. Having said that the sun is so strong that if you are not covered well it can almost burn.

Best time to visit is May to end September. Winters are harsh and many roads are closed.

LEH

All flights land into Leh, since this is the first point of entry, because of the high altitude at least 2 to 3 days are needed to acclimatize. These can be used by just soaking in the ambiance or doing some sightseeing around Leh. There is a fun shopping street also which can be explored. It has lots of souvenirs as well as carpets, shawls and some other stuff from Kashmir. Ensure you keep well hydrated and don’t have any alcohol at least first few days. Some take Diamox a couple of days before the trip to help acclimatize. Personally I did not feel any such need. Any medicine should be taken only after consulting your doctor. There are many options to stay from home stays to luxury hotels.

Shanti Stupa : It’s an elegant white structure, visible from flight as well, built by the Japanese in 1991. It has relics of Buddha and even for the non religious the panoramic views of surrounding landscape is good enough reason to visit.

Leh Palace : It was constructed in the 17th century by King Singe Namgyal. It served as the regal residence of the Namgyal dynasty until the mid 19th century, after which the royal family permanently shifted to Stok. Personally was kind of disappointed, maybe used to grander palaces in other places in India.

Kali Mata Temple : It is located between the Hall of Fame & the Magnetic Hill. The idol is with 6 arms & there are some other idols as well. The face of Kali mata’s is covered with a cloth due to religious reasons & which is removed only for 2-3 days in a year during an annual festival.

Shey Palace : The Shey palace was built by King Deledan Nagmyal and boasts of the largest victory stupa in Leh, the top of which is made of pure gold. The Shey Palace was the abode of the royal family till 1834 AD when they moved to the Stok palace. Could not visit as there was some local unrest.

Hemis Monastery : It was re established in 1672 AD by king Segge Namgyal. It has a festival held in July. It is close to the Hemis National Park, an area that is home to the endangered snow leopard. Gyalwang Drukpa, the current spiritual head of the 1,000-year-old Drukpa Order is more of an environmentalist than a monk, in 2016 he concluded a 2 month cycling expedition covering 2,500 kms along with 200 nuns and 300 monks. More than religion he promotes cycling, afforestation and gender equality. His cycle is displayed at the monastery.

It was fitting then to cycle instead to drive to Thiksey which was our next stop. Cycling was a breeze, mostly downhill or flat. Cycles have to be prearranged.

Thiksey Monastery : Is located on a hill slope, its building are arranged in an ascending order of importance and are well spaced, from the foot of the hill housing the dwelling units to the top of the hill enshrining the monasteries and potang (official residence) of the chief lama.

Gurudwara Pathar Sahib : It’s been so named as legend says Guru Nakak ji was meditating at this place, a demon threw a big rock to destroy him but the boulder turned into wax. The demon, repentant asked for forgiveness. Guru Nanak ji forgave him. The boulder is on display with the imprint of body of Guru Nanak Dev and the footprint of the demon. The Gurudwara is maintained by the Indian Army. Delicious hot halwa is distributed to all. A flight of steps lead to a temple on top and magnificent views of the area.

Magnetic Hill : It’s a road near Leh, it’s an optical illusion where it’s felt the car is rolling uphill in defiance of gravity. There are ATV rides which can be done here.

Hall of Fame : Constructed by the Indian Army to honor the brave soldiers of India who have fought valiantly on the borders of India and Pakistan. It’s a must visit with time on hand to read all the stories, feel the pride as well as be humbled by the sacrifices made by the brave men. They have to fight with the enemy in harsh temperatures with very little to protect them. There is a sound and light show which happens every day at 8PM. Tickets for which have to be bought during the day when the ticket counter is open.

River Rafting and more : Around 35 kms and an hour away from Leh there is river rafting on the Indus-Zanskar river. Difficulty level is medium. Start point is Skarbuch and end is at Sangam. Wet suits are given, it’s however advisable to wear dry fit tracks and t-shirts as these wet suits are worn by many and may feel not so comfortable to have them against your skin. The entire excursion including briefing takes around 3 hours. There are no proper washrooms. To visit the loo is a greater adventure than the rafting. Having said all of that it’s great fun. Cost is approx 1500-1800. There are 26 companies who have rafts there as told by the person in charge of our raft. At the end of the excursion there is a small shack which has hot tea and basic eats which is so welcome as a little water does get in the suits as well and the water is icy cold. I did see rafting in another place as well on way to Nubra but did not look as exciting as this one. Lunch after this HAS to be at Alchi kitchen, it around 45 minutes away and has the best local food possible, the owner herself cooks in an open kitchen with her helpers. There is diwan types seating as well a couple of balconies with tables which overlook the mountain. Would not mind going back just to eat here again. Around 15 minutes away from Alchi’s kitchen is Uley Ethnic resort, it’s beautiful and quaint with apple trees outside the cottages, a lovely viewing gallery overlooking the stream and the mountains. They make their own wine as well ( which I did not like ) there are 2 resorts of the same name so ensure you book the right one. http://www.uleresort.com/

NUBRA VALLEY

Nubra valley is around 150 kms from Leh, takes around 5 hours to reach. We pass the Khardung La pass, was advised by a few to not stop here for long as the altitude makes breathing difficult, luckily none of us faced that. It’s a must stop to click pictures of the magnificent view, actually there are many times when you want to just stop and pause to revel in the majestic surroundings if you give in to temptation would be impossible to reach your destination. On the way to Nubra is Diskit Monastery and Maitreya Buddha. To stay there are mostly tents, some luxury ones with attached toilets and running hot water.

Diskit Monastery : any amount that you want from Rs 100 to Rs 5000 you can donate and put the name of any person you want the monks to chant for in a register. The chanting will get peace and maybe wish fulfillment. They have a hall with mountain views and view of Maitreya Buddha where they serve free tea, the place was so peaceful that none of us wanted to move on.

Maitreya Buddha : just across Diskit, it’s 108 feet tall and at an altitude of 10,308 feet. It presents 3 ideas: protection of the Diskit Village, promotion of world peace and prevention of further war with Pakistan.

Hunder sand dunes : Located in Nubra it’s the coldest desert in India. The place looks like a mini fair ground, with people all around, ATV bikes, archery, photo op with local clothes and the unique Bactrian camels with 2 humps. These camels have been declared endangered species with only 1400 left in the world. Found only in North West China and Mongolia apart from Nubra.

Turtuk : From Nubra it took 2 and half hours, I really don’t know how as all research said it should take 4 hours. It’s a quaint village which was once in Pakistan, known to grow apricots. There are small shops selling everything that can be made out of apricots, jams, oil, lip balm, just about anything. What is a must here is a local guide, without that point of having visited is lost. It’s a Muslim village where no non veg is cooked or served, even in weddings. Only 2 months of the year when it’s very cold lama meat is consumed. Indian and Pakistani flags can be seen fluttering at a distance of 200 meters from each other. Soldiers of both countries are friendly to each other and exchange greetings and gifts. There is so much interesting history to this place. Small eateries are all around which promise to serve food grown fresh and local. This place is a must visit

Pangong : Nubra to Pangong took around 5 hours, it’s a tiring journey which is well worth as soon as the first sight of Pangong lake. It comes as a flash of blue nestled among the mountains. Like a mirage of an Oasis, so blue that it’s unreal. I did think that the color changes with the sun rays. It was bright blue when I first saw it around 4 in the evening, became grey with the setting sun. Quite a few bollywood movies have been shot here. Inspired by the movies there are a few props by the lake to create your own movie. That’s the only allowance to commercialize the place. No swimming, boating, or even entering the water is permitted. For accommodation there are tents, the luxury ones (stretch of the imagination) have attached toilets but no hot water in the taps. Almost no one is know to have braved taking a bath here. The skies are so clear the milky way can be easily seen by the naked eye. If the cold can be braved it would be lovely to sleep under the open sky. From Pangong if travelling Leh, Chang La pass is on the way, again a photo op, probably the last before bidding adieu.

Delicious local food :

Khambir: Local fermented bread, stuffed with various fillings.

Chhutagi / Skyu : Hand made bow tie/ cap shaped pasta stew in mild sauce, served with veggies or non veg.

Mok Mok : Dumpling stuffed with various veg or non veg fillings. A sweet version is stuffed with chocolate. ( I want that just now )

Thupka : Barley flour soup with noodles, veggies or veg flavored with herbs and spices.

Ladakhi Tea : Tea served with butter. A lot of other tea variations, many having walnuts, apricots and saffron, served hot and perfect for the warmth generated in the cold weather.

A lot of buckwheat and barley is used to cook, making local food a healthy option. When you want to cheat Maggie is available everywhere.

Trivia:

There are prayer wheels in all monasteries turning them clockwise and chanting Om Ma Ni Pad Me Hum will drive away negative karma,bring peace and wish fullfillment.

Many places stacked stones are spotted. It’s a way of worship and to ask for wish fullfillment.

Mask dances are performed in most festivals, sometimes by Monks as well.

Pangong Lake despite having saline water freezes over in winter. It’s the highest salt water lake which freezes.

Highest natural rink in the world at Karzoo. In winter the pond freezes, making it an open-air ice rink. The winter sports club tournaments take place in this rink.

Things you must carry

2 pairs of sturdy comfortable shoes, a cozy slip slipper on to wear at night and rest your feet, cap for sun and monkey cap for cold ( both will be required ) Sun glasses, loads of sun tan lotion as if you are going to a beach destination. Lip balm, lots of moisturizer as the climate is very dry. A thermos to take some hot tea or coffee along if you want. Alcohol is not available and not advisable to have as well, but in case you want to still consume it should be carried beforehand.

Meghalaya

Sapna Rateria — Tue, 20 Apr 2021 08:57:46 +0000

An Instagram post drew me to this virgin state in India, the video was of a waterfall, pristine and alluring. For a travel addict it’s never known what triggers the need to just pack bags and go. It’s Covid times and everything was so uncertain, never the less I started my research inspired by Wei Sawdong. The more I searched the more hidden gems I could find. It was revelation…this state had so much of natural beauty and for the active traveler, they can trek, cycle, swim. Adventure seekers can do cliff jumps, zip lining, snorkeling, kayaking. It’s also a state that is ahead from most others in India to preserve natural reserves and be plastic free. Maybe because of that the air is purer, the flowers brighter. For foodies local cuisine is Khasi and Jaintia which is pure non vegetarian. Alas for vegetarians like me, we should be content with what we get. Roads are superb, a delight to all those who love to drive. A minimum of 7 days and maximum of any number of days required to do justice to this part of India. A Covid negative taken maximum 96 hours prior to travel was mandatory, so much trepidation. Apprehension made me packed my bags last day as did not want to jinx the trip. Though there is more to see, this blog is about the places I visited. Not really relevant to a tourist maybe but this state is mostly matriarchal, has a highly progressive scenario for women.

Shillong

To reach Shillong the closest airport with regular flights is Gauwahati which is around 3 hours away by road. This town is the gateway to Meghalaya, though that’s not its only claim to fame. On the way from Gauwahati to Shillong stop at Umiam lake. Once you reach Shillong things to see are Ward’s Lake, Mary’s Cathedral, Shillong peak, Don Bosco museum. Elephant falls was disappointing, can avoid. Shopping and local roadside eats is at police bazar. In the by lanes of Police Bazar is Glory’s plaza, depending on your bargaining skills you can pick up jackets and some trendy dresses for a steal. The center of police bazar has all kinds of street food, momos, chowmein, egg rolls, grilled meats, puchka ( their name for pani puri ). Different berries to savour for fruit lovers. Bakery with fresh buns and cakes. Wine shops here have a variety of wine in cans to stock up for the trip, I did not see that elsewhere. Many places allow BYOB. Places recommended for great ambiance sit down meals are Evening club, Deja Vu, Cafe Shillong, Tripura Castle. I stayed at Cafe Shillong would highly recommend it for someone looking at experiencing local stay. ( book the luxury room ) Other option with local feel would be Tripura castle, drawback, it’s isolated and you would need your own car else transportation would be an issue.

Cherrapunji / Sohra

Cherrapunji is where all the action is, would recommend longest stay here. Shillong to Cherrapunji is around 2 hours, stop for lunch at Cafe Cherrapunji. More for the Scotland feel the place has than for the food, you may have to wait a while for the food as it’s kind of a laid back place. A couple of kilometres away is zip lining by Pioneer adventures. They have 2 lines with different distance, the longer one is a must do.

Wei Sawdong: It’s a 3 tier waterfall, the cascading water has formed a kind of pond which collects the clear emerald water which was cold even in April. The trek to reach the bottom is not long but dangerous with ladders made with bamboo at an impossible 90 degree angle. Once you reach there the waterfall will surely take your breath away. You can swim cautiously minding the slippery rocks. In the mood of some more adventure ? Climb up to the 2nd and 3rd tier of the falls to get an even better view. Comfortable shoes are necessary.

Mawsmai caves : It’s a network of underground caves which is full of beautiful and stalactites and stalagmites. There is a short hike through the forest to reach the main entrance of the cave. This hike takes you through some stunning views of the valley that is full of waterfalls during monsoons, and an occasional café playing local Khasi music. Fossils of pre-historic creatures preserved in time on the walls of the cave.

Arwah caves : Sunken chambers and limestone walls is what you can expect. The fossils can be seen by the phone torch. It’s an adventurous walk where the ceiling of the cave is almost on you one moment, and clears out the next. The underwater streams make it difficult sometimes to walk but surprisingly the floor is not slippery. At the exit the views are just as spectacular as the cave was.

Garden of caves : This did not pop up as the must do things at Cherrapunji, it’s not really a cave as such, more of collection of small caves, waterfalls, different rock formations. Since its not crowded it’s a good spot to take a lot of pictures and maybe have a small picnic.

Double Decker living root bridge : Tyrna is the starting point for this trek. It’s the signature picture for Meghalaya tourism. It’s a bridge made of roots of rubber trees with some human intervention. On the way there are a couple of narrow bridges which are made of wires and look pretty dangerous. Everyone who can trek a bit will want to visit this, it’s 3500 steps one way, it’s all a descent first which makes your legs all wobbly, all the myths that going downhill is easier goes out of the window. It was an hour of trek one way just to reach there and probably an hour and half to come back. Frankly apart from the fact that you get fantastic pictures I think to do even the single root bridge at Rivai village without the trek is fair enough. The area surrounding it has become very commercial and dirty. There are home stays at Nongriat for people who don’t want to do it in a day. On the way there are plenty of small tea stalls selling home made lemonade, maggie and soft drinks.

Rainbow falls : There can be no words to describe the beautiful though difficult trek leading to Rainbow falls, difficult because after the living root bridge there are no steps carved out. It’s around 2 hours from double decker bridge. I would rate this as the best in Meghalaya, a reason could be that the terrain deters most people to attempt venturing here and thereby it’s less crowded. On the way are a couple of smaller single root bridges. Look out for a serene blue lagoon of water which the guide promised we can visit on our way back.

The falls were majestic, after I could catch my breath both from the effort of the trek and the beautiful view I caught sight of the pool created by the waterfall, the climb down looked daunting but encouraged by the guide I ventured till the bottom,. It was worth it to paddle around in the natural cove created by the fall and feel the sprays on my face. Was not lucky enough to see a rainbow Not really wanting to leave, images of the blue lagoon which I had left behind kind of pushed me. I am surprised that I have not really read about this one. Its a simple descent to the lagoon which has not even been named as yet. I asked the guide and he said it’s called the swimming pool. That’s a very matter of fact name for such a heavenly body of water. An hour is what I could get at most here as had to reach Tyrna before it became dark. Sunset is mostly by 530. On the way back rain gods were happy with the universe at large and the showers kept me cool as well as washed the entire mountains for phenomenal views. For a relatively fit person doing all of this in a day’s time is pretty doable. I left at 8:30 morning to be back by 5:30 evening.

7 sisters waterfall, Mawsadong falls : Photo ops is good enough.

To stay : There are various options, 2 luxury ones – Polo Orchid Resort, Jiva Resort. I did not get rooms available at both and stayed at Smoky Falls Mae Fi resort, this is at Tyrna just where the trek for Double decker root bridge begins. It’s a little away from central Cherrapunji but worked well for me as I had a car and gave me some time advantage to begin my trek. Also the location was amazing, surrounded by hills and valleys. 2 kms away from Jiva is Kutmadan Resort which has amazing views and basic rooms.

Mawlynnong

Drive from Cherrapunji to Mawlynnong is around 2 and a half hours. It’s been recognized as the cleanest village of Asia. Not only that it’s got 100% literacy rate. The sky view is a vantage point made from where you can see Bangladesh. There are lots of home stays here for those who want to stay a night. For ethnic simple lunch it’s HA LA I TRE or simply you can ask for Sunita’s lunch.

Dawki

Mawlynnong to Dawki is around an hour. This place does not have any recommended place to stay. I was advised by most that we should avoid a night stay here unless I can deal with basic facilities. The number of activities this place promised, I kind of steeled myself and opted to stay a night at Pioneer adventure camps at their luxury tents. They have individual tiled washrooms with showers. When I reached Dawki I did not get the translucent waters I was expecting, apparently with the first rains which happens mid March the river bed gets disturbed and even though the water was crystal clear it wasn’t like the pictures I have seen. I reached around 6 PM and was apprehensive on what to expect in terms of accommodation, it did not help that it was dark with faint lights. To reach the camp you have to cross the river, the passage was taken care by the Pioneer team in a small boat. ( If you are opting to stay at Pioneer camps, pack a small backpack with necessities and leave your bag in the car )

Actually wasn’t as bad as I was dreading, and since there was not much to do in the dark enjoyed the solitude and felt rather than saw the Umngot river. When I got up though, was another story, all the efforts and fear were totally worth it. The beautiful clear river, the mountains, the few dinghies bobbing in the river. It was picture perfect. Full morning could be spent just soaking it all in, but there was loads to do, snorkeling, kayaking, zip lining, boating, cliff jumping, rafting. After breakfast which was at a rustic but lovely dining space headed to the river to check as many boxes as I could in the short span of time. Even if all is not possible don’t miss swimming in this lovely clean river.

For the way back Dawki to Gauwahati is around 5 hours, best to stay overnight at Shillong to peacefully catch your flight back. I opted to stay at Phi Ro Sha which is at Umsning around 3 hours from Dawki and 2 hours from Gauwahati. It’s a lovely family run resort with a huge swimming pool and big cottages. Chilling here was the perfect way to end a hectic holiday.

With the pandemic I feel fortunate that I could take this break, maybe will explore more hidden gems of India till the world opens again.

Tips : Pack a couple of clean sheets if you are opting for camping, a plastic bag to keep wet clothes as there will be plenty on this trip, pack clothes that dry easily. Sturdy shoes. Lots of mosquito repellent and sun screen. Some snacks to munch on.

Croatia

Sapna Rateria — Tue, 26 Jan 2021 07:06:51 +0000

Once you travel to Croatia it will be with you always …the sun drenched towns the cobbled pathways, friendly trusting people. I though I was flirting with it, but I fell in love, now the memories keep calling out, once more it whispers.

This country in Europe has so much going for it. One of the largest coastlines of the Mediterranean sea, 3,600 miles which translates to a lot of beaches and sunshine for 7 months of the year from middle of April to middle of October. Hidden bars and restaurants in Roman ruins. National parks, cultural and musical festivals in quaint towns. Parties that go on all night, in the morning you feel you are tired and done but end up taking a walk along the sea or maybe grabbing a coffee at a Cliffside restaurant before calling it a night ( day ? ). I did say cliff, as you find cliffs and sea together in many parts of this country. The quirkiest museum that you can think of is in Zagreb-The museum of broken relationships. I guess there are many takers for this one as a second one opened in Los Angeles. It’s probably one of the cheaper European countries as it’s only around 30 years ago that it got its freedom.Your money will go a little longer here. Whatever fascinates you, history, beaches, adventure, nature you will probably get it here. A small deterrent could be that public transportation to get from one city to another is not quite developed, it has to be self drive which is a beautiful experience in itself or guided tours which are a little pricey.

There are so many charming towns and ancient cities that probably figuring out which one to visit may be tough. Add to that the undiscovered ones which are just calling out to the adventurous souls to bring them out of hiding.

Let’s start with the capital.

Zagreb

I am not too much of a city person and though it has its quaint cafes and buzzing vibes I would rather spend more time in the smaller towns which I love much better. I did miss the opportunity to visit the museum of broken relationships, maybe on my next trip.

Rovinj

It’s difficult, no impossible to not be fascinated with this almost vehicle free town, sea and cliffs both holding hands and welcoming you. Restaurants and bars along the cliff, quaint tiny shops selling high fashion from Italy at throw away prices. Sea front eateries with informal seating and picturesque view with lively vibes. Things to do ??? not sure and there is no reason to look for activities, that would be a waste of time. Soak in the town and walk around it’s small enough for you to get around on foot or a cycle.

Not that anyone would want to but you can hop on a ferry and go to Venice in around 3 to 3.30 hours.

Plitvice

All the energies saved can be used here. It’s a protected national park as well as UNESCO World heritage site. It’s got 16 interconnected lakes and over 90 waterfalls. Though it can be done as a day trip from Zagreb and Split would highly recommend that you stay a couple of nights here, especially if you like trekking and photography. All seasons here have their own charm, summer obviously but that also is a time when most people visit so it may get crowded. Spring where the waterfalls would be in their full glory, Autumn with leaves changing colors, winter when covered with snow the waterfalls look surreal.

Though swimming is not permitted you can spot the small fish from afar, the water is so clear. In case you are very keen to swim you can visit Krka national park instead of Plitvice, it’s smaller but more accessible from Zadar and Split.

There are small hotels to stay, nothing very fancy but comfortable. Some food you should keep handy as restaurants close early and are far apart, and all the trekking will leave you with a good appetite.

Split

This in a nutshell is a bigger and more glamorous version of Rovinj. Roam around Diocletian’s palace in the city centre, take a guided tour to know more about the history of the place. Take a cruise on the sea. Climb Marjan hill at sunset for great views. The nightlife here is very vibrant for all the party animals.

If you haven’t visited Plitvice you can do a day trip to Krka from here, it’s just an hour and half away.

Hvar

From Split, Hvar is just an hour away by ferry. It’s known for its parties, beaches and local wine. Pakelni Islands can be explored from there as a half day or a full day for the beach bums. For the trekkers they can climb Sveti Nikola, which is a difficult trek of 10 kms and takes up to 5 hours.

Hula- Hula is a beach club without a beach, it’s full of young people and known for sun downers as it closes by 10 PM.

Dubrovnik

The most know and visited city of Croatia thanks to Game Of Thrones. It’s also a walled city where you can climb up the wall and actually walk around the city to get to know it better. Take loads of pictures while you are at it. Sunglasses and a hat are a must as there would be no protection from the sun. If views and pictures are your mantra for a good evening go to the top Mount Srd, you can take a cable car, drive or hike. Cable car is the fun option. There’s a café there to grab a bite or a drink while enjoying the views.

Take a walking tour of Game of Thrones, Museums….. tired of history? Take a 15 minute ferry to Lokrum Island, roam around or jump into the inviting waters.

War never does any good, see that for yourself, visit Hotel Belvedre which operated for 6 years and was then abandoned during the Croatian war of Independence. It’s on a cliff and offers some great views.

For all the adventure seekers you have loads to choose from, sea kayaking, cliff jumping, jet ski. After all that is done and dusted and you want to boast about your day or simply just let the dayl soak in, Dubrovnik has a few cliff bars, most notable of which is Buza bar, it’s outside the city walls and perched on the cliff, with beautiful views of the island of Lokrum and inviting waters just below or maybe if you have a lot of energy left and want to dance to the latest music, head to a 500 year old fortress which houses Club Revlin. It’s been voted in DJ magazines as the top 100 clubs in the world.

For a sun downer or maybe for a full day to laze around you can head to Banje beach club, it’s a pebbled beach to relax or party. Statutory warning : it’s very crowded. Want to avoid crowds go to Bistro Izvor, it’s in the suburbs and has a good collection of local wines .

Palace Hotels of India

Sapna Rateria — Thu, 24 Dec 2020 08:14:51 +0000

It’s a fascinating world where there is grandeur, history, romance, intrigue and in the midst of all, whatever happens the belief “Atithi devo bhava” which translated means Guest is equivalent to God. Indians believe guests are to be revered.

India has an incredible number of experiences to offer and staying in one of the palace hotels get you transported to, even if just for a while, into a world which has been read about and maybe imagined but not lived.

This blog involves a bit of history, India got its independence from British rule in the year 1947. As the world knows India had many Kings and Queens which means lots of palaces , forts and so much grandeur that it has to be seen to believed.

In the 1950’s royals had to surrender a lot of their ancestral properties but they could keep some as well. In time they discovered that maintaining them was tough, and being located in beautiful locations on hills and middle of lakes also meant access to them would be difficult, with horse drawn carriages no longer a viable option. Not only would money have to be spent to maintain, but also to build infrastructure. This lead to many of them selling their ancestral property or partnering with leading hotel chains to convert the palaces to hotels. What many of them have managed to do is retain the regal aura as well as extend many of the customs which was reserved for royalty now to their guests. Even now in many such hotels the prince and princess stay in a section reserved for them which is not accessible to visitors. For in house guests many of them offer a daily tour of the palace with a guide.

A country which is big enough to be a continent, more royal dynasties than any other, each resplendent with it’s own culture, architecture and lifestyle, add to that ancient inhabited cities, colorful festivities and beautiful landscapes, all of this is now open for the global traveler to devour.

This blog is my belief that theses palace hotels, ( and many more ) are the destination and not the city they happen to be in.

Falaknuma in Hyderabad

Perched 2,000 feet above the city of Hyderabad . Built in 1894, it is the former palace of the Nizam, rumoured to be the richest man in the world at one time. Made completely with Italian marble and stain glass windows, in the shape of a scorpion. Overlooking the twinkling City of Pearls, this enchanting palace hotel in Hyderabad exudes romance and grandeur that take one back to when the Nizam ruled Hyderabad. On arrival a horse-drawn carriage replaces the car you have arrived in. Rose petals are showered while you enter (made me feel like a queen ) I was caught unaware and did not take pictures, they overheard me saying that and on departure did it all over again so that I could capture the moment. That’s the kind of service you can expect. Suites are beautifully refurbished and lovingly restored by Her Highness Princess Esra, the Nizam’s Turkish wife. Each provides marvellous views of the palace courtyard and the 400-year-old city of Hyderabad. The dining table here is the longest in the world at 80 feet. Made of 7 pieces it is 5.7 foot wide and 2.7 foot high, can seat 101 people at a time.

#falaknumapalace#luxurytravel#india

Things to do.

Live Qqwwali performance every evening

Heritage walk in the palace

Enjoy peacocks strutting around the courtyard outside your room.

Luxuriate in the specially drawn bath of your choice ( milk, bubble or scented )in the privacy of your room. You can do this every day, they make the ambiance so romantic with candles and rose petals.

Breakfast at leisure, it’s not buffet, it’s like royalty would have been served, with butlers hovering around almost trying to read your mind. ( it’s not spooky ) Weather permitting you can have it at Gol Bunglow which overlooks the city. Apart from India royalty this venue has been the royal reception place for King George V and Queen Mary.

Relish the authentic Hyderabadi cuisine at Adaa

Explore the city.

It’s known as the city of pearls, buying pearls becomes kind of becomes necessary .

See the Charminar ( I did not find it great, shopping around for colorful bangles around it was more fun )

Golconda fort and Hussain Sagar lake can be clubbed together at one go as they are close to one another. Golconda fort has a sound and light show which is averagely good, not great. Beware of mosquitoes.

Chowmahalla Palace, interesting if you want to know more about the Nizam rule.

Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur :

Built between 1928 and 1943, Umaid Bhawan Palace is a magnificent piece of Rajasthan’s heritage and sandstone architecture by British Architect Henry Vaughan Lanchester, the interiors took 3 years under the supervision of Polish artist Stefan Norblin. Currently the world’s sixth-largest private residence as it’s the Royal residence of the Rathore dynasty. The palace has one thing in common with the iconic Taj Mahal at Agra—the palm court marble used in its construction. Perched on Chittar Hill, the highest point in Jodhpur, Umaid Bhawan Palace awes with exotic views of the historical Blue City, vast sand dunes, and intimidating Mehrangarh Fort. It’s set amidst 26 acres of lush gardens, with dancing peacocks and a subterranean Zodiac Pool. The fort adjoining the hotel has been converted into a museum. Welcome is with trumpets, a ceremonial tikka and wine.

#umaidbhawanpalace#Jodhpur#rajasthan

Things to do

Live Rajasthani folk dance in the central dome every evening.

Heritage walk in the palace with a glass of wine.

Visit the in house museum and the vintage car museum, it also has the 1927 Silver Ghost Rolls Royce.

Private dining in fairy tale setting.

Go swimming in the zodiac indoor pool, its lit by candles and has murals of sea green fish. Steps leading to the indoor pool are resplendent with fresh flowers and walking down the steps makes you feel like royalty. They have an outdoor pool as well.

Explore the city …… a vibrant colourful one, known as the blue city because of the blue painted houses.

Mehrangarh fort, it’s beautiful with intricate carving, sprawling courtyards, the adventurous souls can do zip lining here. Visit the Chamunda Mata temple at the southern end of the fort, it has a spiritual vibe and you can also get some nice pictures if you are patient as it’s normally quite crowded. Jaswant Thada a beautiful memorial made of white marble for King Jaswant Singh can be combined in the same trip. Both are must visit.

A few have to dine out places for the view ( not necessarily for the food ) Indique, Darikhana @ RAAS, Indigo, while dining the majestic Mehrangarh Fort is your view, try to go during sunset.

Must try local food specialities, Gatta, daal baati, churma. For street food, mirchi wada and pyaaz ka kachori. Since I am a staunch vegetarian you won’t find any non vegetarian recommendations here.

Shop for local clothes, trinkets, shoes, pottery, tea, spices just about anything that you can think of on the road side markets surrounding the Clock Tower. Another place to shop would be Tripolia Bazar.

Udaivilas in Udaipur :

The city was founded in the 16^th century and Udaivilas though not a heritage structure has been made keeping in mind Mewari architecture by Nimish Patel and Parul Zaveri. Build on the banks of Lake Pichola with a backdrop of the Aravalli hills it stands on the 200 year old hunting grounds of the Maharana of Mewar. Its build on 50 acres which include a 20 acre wildlife sanctuary inhabited by deer and wild boar. Upon entry the first thing you see is a majestic pool with 4 domes and giant marble lily flowers which you can hop on to for taking lovely pictures . Peacocks roam freely around enhancing the beauty of the place. Recommend : book a room with an infinity edge swimming pool.

#oberoiudaivilas#incredibleindia#Udaipur#lakecity

Things to do

Heritage walk, a boat ride across the lake and after that a tour through Udaipur’s lanes with interesting facts and stories narrated by a guide.

Candle lit dinners light with live music

Explore the city of lakes.

City Palace, Built in 1559 under the rule of Maharana Udai Singh, subsequently it was enhanced over the next 400 years by his successors. It consists of 11 small palaces built of marble and granite and in harmony with each other. This is a must visit for it’s beauty, architecture and history.

Crystal gallery inside Taj Fateh Prakash hotel, it’s the single largest private collection of crystal in the world. Visit only if crystals fascinate you.

Sajjangarh on the top of a hill for breath taking view.

Nathdwara, Eklingji, Jagdish Temple for spiritual peace.

Saas Bahu temple for photo opportunities, it’s a deserted temple with intricate carving and no deities.

Shop for local colorful clothes and trinkets at Ghanta Ghar bazar, Lake palace road, Bapu Bazar, Hatipole market, Jagdish market ( that’s in my order of preference ) If you don’t want to bargain then Rajasthali. Though I love browsing the colorful wares on display and while bargaining talk to the locals, you will be surprised to discover many of them know English.

Must dine at Jagat Niwas, Upre, Ambrai. All these places are very small, reserve a few days in advance. They have stunning lake views and lovely roof top ambience